All packed and ready for an early morning departure for home. I'll be getting off the flight in Toronto to spend the weekend with family. Easter Sunday I'll get back to my own place to start the great re-settling.
Heather and I have had a wonderful time. We've done Dublin from Epic Ireland to Gogarty's Irish pub in Temple Bar. We rode the Hop-on Hop-off to great advantage. Today we toured Dublin Castle. Timing was perfect as the forecasted rain arrived while we were inside. We lunched in their cafe where the food was good but the service was appallingly slow.
We didn't want to tour the Guinness Storehouse, but we wanted to shop at their store for requested souvenirs. I've been on the tour twice already. So, we hopped on again and disembarked at Stop 15. As it happens, you have to take the 20 Euro tour just to get into the shop. We weren't that anxious to give them money, so we moved on. We were lucky because we were able to hop right back on the same bus. The driver assured us that Carroll's - a huge souvenir store - would have all the same Guinness gear. Well, they had some things but not really what we wanted. I hope the substitutes are acceptable.
Back on the bus again. Our final destination was the Kilmainham Gaol. Rumour has it that the tour is wonderful. I tried to book tickets online last night but they are all sold out for the next week except for a few tickets for Sunday at 11 and next Tuesday at 4. That's just a tad late for us. They keep tickets back for walk-ins, but we weren't lucky enough to get them. So, we had to settle for wandering around the museum there. Too many stairs - and more or less only signs to read and a few items from when the prison was open. It is very sad to see the sentences imposed for stealing a loaf of bread to feed the family. So - off to the bus once more.
Back again at O'Connell street we waited at the Air Link bus stop for the trip back out to the airport. From there the hotel shuttle returned us to the Clayton Hotel. Our key cards, for the second day in a row, would not open the door to the elevator lobby. Back to the desk we went for new ones. Those didn't work either, so we were given brand new cards. Bingo - we could get back to our room.
We've packed up and will shortly call it a night. It will be an early morning and hopefully the flight will be on time. I'll miss Ireland, yet am very much looking forward to seeing family and friends again.
I will keep writing this blog from time to time to keep track of my adventures in genealogy. It is unlikely to be of any interest until my next trip, except to diehard family historians.
Slan
Wednesday, April 12, 2017
Monday, April 10, 2017
Clear across the country today
This morning dawned sunny and very chilly but we set out as planned and walked the mile or so into the centre of Galway for the Hop on Hop off bus tour. Funny name for it - you only hop on at the beginning and off at the end. There are no pickups en route - probably because there is only one bus and it runs 4 times a day. Ah well, it was a nice tour.
Subsequently we spent time walking around the pedestrian area of mostly shops and restaurants and pubs. It was alternately sunny and cloudy. We walked through the Spanish Arch to see the museum. Alas, Monday was a poor choice as it was closed. Oddly enough, the cafe attached to it was open.
Having seen what we could, it was time to point the car east - so we did. Traffic was light and the road was good and we decided to pay a short visit to Clonmacnoise. It is a very old sacred sight that incorporates relatively recent graves, 20th century, into a very old cemetery. The various monastic buildings are in ruins but interesting features remain. The three high crosses, the originals, are now inside the museum and copies have taken their place out in the elements. Taking photos was complicated by the ride-on lawnmower that seemed to sense what I wanted to photograph and was often in view. Having to cut grass, even while sitting down, around hundreds of ancient headstones would not be my idea of a good time.
With Clonmacnoise in the rear view mirror it was a straight run to Dublin. By that I mean there were no nasty incidents. There were some interesting roads. None of them straight. Many of the sights of Ireland's Ancient East are not on main roads, so the dedicated tourist must spend some time on those lovely twisting narrow hilly byways. The hedges are in bloom with the bright yellow of the gorse and the soft white of what I think is Blackthorn. I can't explain the white vs black thing.
We arrived at our airport hotel and after having to line up to check in, we were upgraded to a larger room. Nice. With arms full of stuff and a large suitcase each, we then had to pause to open the door to the elevator lobby with the room key. OK - all set again. The elevator was quick and we disembarked onto a nice marble floor. For a half second. Then we hit the lovely plush carpet. It would be wonderful to walk on this in bare feet. Try hauling a 50 lb suitcase on wheels over sand. The rate of travel would be about the same as ours down the hall, and down another hall. Why is it that an upgrade means your room is so far from the elevator there is little need for a treadmill in your life?
The evening was spent getting into Dublin on the AirLink bus as part of our 72 hour bus pass to everything we'd want, eating at Gogarty's and enjoying the Irish music. The return bus trip was uneventful and we've now called it a day.
here's a link to today's images - some are already on FB
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/0an1w7xrnyk83e3/AADIWyVh6zNV_7WDb2Hh7AWha
Slan
Subsequently we spent time walking around the pedestrian area of mostly shops and restaurants and pubs. It was alternately sunny and cloudy. We walked through the Spanish Arch to see the museum. Alas, Monday was a poor choice as it was closed. Oddly enough, the cafe attached to it was open.
Having seen what we could, it was time to point the car east - so we did. Traffic was light and the road was good and we decided to pay a short visit to Clonmacnoise. It is a very old sacred sight that incorporates relatively recent graves, 20th century, into a very old cemetery. The various monastic buildings are in ruins but interesting features remain. The three high crosses, the originals, are now inside the museum and copies have taken their place out in the elements. Taking photos was complicated by the ride-on lawnmower that seemed to sense what I wanted to photograph and was often in view. Having to cut grass, even while sitting down, around hundreds of ancient headstones would not be my idea of a good time.
With Clonmacnoise in the rear view mirror it was a straight run to Dublin. By that I mean there were no nasty incidents. There were some interesting roads. None of them straight. Many of the sights of Ireland's Ancient East are not on main roads, so the dedicated tourist must spend some time on those lovely twisting narrow hilly byways. The hedges are in bloom with the bright yellow of the gorse and the soft white of what I think is Blackthorn. I can't explain the white vs black thing.
We arrived at our airport hotel and after having to line up to check in, we were upgraded to a larger room. Nice. With arms full of stuff and a large suitcase each, we then had to pause to open the door to the elevator lobby with the room key. OK - all set again. The elevator was quick and we disembarked onto a nice marble floor. For a half second. Then we hit the lovely plush carpet. It would be wonderful to walk on this in bare feet. Try hauling a 50 lb suitcase on wheels over sand. The rate of travel would be about the same as ours down the hall, and down another hall. Why is it that an upgrade means your room is so far from the elevator there is little need for a treadmill in your life?
The evening was spent getting into Dublin on the AirLink bus as part of our 72 hour bus pass to everything we'd want, eating at Gogarty's and enjoying the Irish music. The return bus trip was uneventful and we've now called it a day.
here's a link to today's images - some are already on FB
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/0an1w7xrnyk83e3/AADIWyVh6zNV_7WDb2Hh7AWha
Slan
Sunday, April 9, 2017
From Cork to Castlebar
Our full day in Cork started with the Hop on Hop off bus tour which hit the highlights. We hopped on at the third stop and off at the last, which was also the first. From there we explored the English Market and local shopping streets. We didn't buy anything. Once our feet were done, we hopped back on and got the intro to the tour. Two stops later we got off at our hotel where we had started. It was a fun tour. Possibly the most amazing part was how the coach driver navigated streets that I swear were narrower than the bus - and they weren't all one-way streets. My opinion is the bus was built by Harry Potter Enterprises so they could morph to whatever shape was required to fit in tight spaces and around impossibly tight corners.
We declined to climb the tower and ring the bells at St Anne's Shandon. There was an opportunity to tour the jail which once housed both men and women, in separate wings. We'll probably tour Kilmainham Gaol in Dublin instead.
The afternoon was a genealogist's dream. Frank Keating and his daughter Leah - cousins of Heather's - picked us up. Frank grew up in Cork and navigates the streets light a tour bus driver, just with a smaller vehicle. He was able to show Heather all of the properties where her ancestors lived before leaving for Canada in the early 20th century. The Scanlons were a wealthy family so the reason for their emigration is still a mystery. They had a fabulous big home, on a hill overlooking the city. We were able to climb the 35 steps from the street to the front door, but didn't get in. There are 7 fireplaces, judging from the number of chimney pots.
We met them again for supper in town and later Declan joined us for drinks at our hotel. We talked until after midnight when a wedding party - already all roaring drunk - staggered to the next table. At that point they were so loud and obnoxious that we called it a night.
Saturday morning dawned bright and sunny and the temperature later reached the high teens, Celsius. I pointed our car north towards Limerick and off we went. Our guide was the bossy voice in the GPS. We went as far as Ennis, Co Clare, on main roads. Then the fun began. To see more we set the machine for Kilrush. With a preference for back roads we saw more than we had bargained for but it was all amazingly lovely.
Once parked in Kilrush we asked two ladies for a recommendation for lunch. The Potter's Hand was a short walk away and worth every step. In conversation with our server, we learned that the locals prefer the cliffs at Kilkee to the Cliffs of Moher, where we were headed. Nothing beats local knowledge, so Kilkee was the next destination. Wow is the only word to use. Parking was free and we just followed the path, past the cafe and up the hill. And up the hill. And up the next hill where I pointed to the top and said "Nope". But up we went and up some more. All the way to the top. The reward was a fabulous view and a need to take off the jackets. Heather timed our return walk, which was non-stop going down, and it took about 25 minutes. Almost to the bottom we watched some idiots in bathing suits navigate the rough rocks where waves were crashing, in order to plunge into the cold Atlantic waters. I was afraid we were going to see a mass drowning. Fortunately, they all got out safely, screeching about the cold water.
From there is was on to the Cliffs of Moher. It was my third visit and the third time the weather was great. We had to wait in line to park the car, but then up we went again. Our reward was a perfect view in the early evening.
Unable to find the right Maldron hotel with the GPS we did get to one a few miles away from our destination in Galway and they gave us directions. We're on the edge of town - a 20 minute walk got us to the pedestrian shopping and dining area.
Today we took the coastal route through what became a desolate rocky landscape. It really was not our taste in views. We lunched on the coast at Clifden but declined to take a flight or a ferry to the Aran Islands. We got into mountainous territory but with the rain and cloud we only saw the vague outline of most mountains, including the Twelve Pins. They are there but we missed them. We did stop at Kylemore Abbey, once a castle. Its designation changed when it became home to the Benedictine Nuns. The rain was heaviest while we were enjoying the interior of the 'castle' and we wandered in the lovely gift shop for a bit.
On to Westport, which was so busy we didn't stop. Also, it was still raining. Rather than retrace our same route back to Galway we used the Autoaddress app to bring us to Castlebar, then Ballindine and on to Galway.
We walked into town for supper but didn't stay for the traditional Irish music which didn't start until 9:30. We are now watching the Masters. Tomorrow, a tour of Galway city and some time wandering the interesting shops. Then on to Dublin for our last stop before flying home. Here are some links to pictures:
Saturday: Kilrush, Kilkee and Cliffs of Moher
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/dpyrmv3jbsj3otq/AADdn3r_YJUX3O_ZF29EM6kPa
Sunday: the rugged west coast of Galway and Mayo
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/rt59sdztg6fvp3a/AABXBO-_GpfTpKbdkHIxMVjra
We declined to climb the tower and ring the bells at St Anne's Shandon. There was an opportunity to tour the jail which once housed both men and women, in separate wings. We'll probably tour Kilmainham Gaol in Dublin instead.
The afternoon was a genealogist's dream. Frank Keating and his daughter Leah - cousins of Heather's - picked us up. Frank grew up in Cork and navigates the streets light a tour bus driver, just with a smaller vehicle. He was able to show Heather all of the properties where her ancestors lived before leaving for Canada in the early 20th century. The Scanlons were a wealthy family so the reason for their emigration is still a mystery. They had a fabulous big home, on a hill overlooking the city. We were able to climb the 35 steps from the street to the front door, but didn't get in. There are 7 fireplaces, judging from the number of chimney pots.
We met them again for supper in town and later Declan joined us for drinks at our hotel. We talked until after midnight when a wedding party - already all roaring drunk - staggered to the next table. At that point they were so loud and obnoxious that we called it a night.
Saturday morning dawned bright and sunny and the temperature later reached the high teens, Celsius. I pointed our car north towards Limerick and off we went. Our guide was the bossy voice in the GPS. We went as far as Ennis, Co Clare, on main roads. Then the fun began. To see more we set the machine for Kilrush. With a preference for back roads we saw more than we had bargained for but it was all amazingly lovely.
Once parked in Kilrush we asked two ladies for a recommendation for lunch. The Potter's Hand was a short walk away and worth every step. In conversation with our server, we learned that the locals prefer the cliffs at Kilkee to the Cliffs of Moher, where we were headed. Nothing beats local knowledge, so Kilkee was the next destination. Wow is the only word to use. Parking was free and we just followed the path, past the cafe and up the hill. And up the hill. And up the next hill where I pointed to the top and said "Nope". But up we went and up some more. All the way to the top. The reward was a fabulous view and a need to take off the jackets. Heather timed our return walk, which was non-stop going down, and it took about 25 minutes. Almost to the bottom we watched some idiots in bathing suits navigate the rough rocks where waves were crashing, in order to plunge into the cold Atlantic waters. I was afraid we were going to see a mass drowning. Fortunately, they all got out safely, screeching about the cold water.
From there is was on to the Cliffs of Moher. It was my third visit and the third time the weather was great. We had to wait in line to park the car, but then up we went again. Our reward was a perfect view in the early evening.
Unable to find the right Maldron hotel with the GPS we did get to one a few miles away from our destination in Galway and they gave us directions. We're on the edge of town - a 20 minute walk got us to the pedestrian shopping and dining area.
Today we took the coastal route through what became a desolate rocky landscape. It really was not our taste in views. We lunched on the coast at Clifden but declined to take a flight or a ferry to the Aran Islands. We got into mountainous territory but with the rain and cloud we only saw the vague outline of most mountains, including the Twelve Pins. They are there but we missed them. We did stop at Kylemore Abbey, once a castle. Its designation changed when it became home to the Benedictine Nuns. The rain was heaviest while we were enjoying the interior of the 'castle' and we wandered in the lovely gift shop for a bit.
On to Westport, which was so busy we didn't stop. Also, it was still raining. Rather than retrace our same route back to Galway we used the Autoaddress app to bring us to Castlebar, then Ballindine and on to Galway.
We walked into town for supper but didn't stay for the traditional Irish music which didn't start until 9:30. We are now watching the Masters. Tomorrow, a tour of Galway city and some time wandering the interesting shops. Then on to Dublin for our last stop before flying home. Here are some links to pictures:
Saturday: Kilrush, Kilkee and Cliffs of Moher
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/dpyrmv3jbsj3otq/AADdn3r_YJUX3O_ZF29EM6kPa
Sunday: the rugged west coast of Galway and Mayo
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/rt59sdztg6fvp3a/AABXBO-_GpfTpKbdkHIxMVjra
Saturday, April 8, 2017
Lots to catch up on
Monday was wet and we got a very late start, but we got to see some pet lambs at Coolross. Then we headed to the Rock Tavern and our timing was perfect. There was a sheep about to have a lamb. We put on Wellies and headed to the shed with James and Tom and young Michael followed. Michael was just in time to pull the lamb who arrived healthy and hearty.
Not ten minutes later a calf decided it was time to see the world and once more a great scene for a couple of city slickers.
Tuesday was probably over scheduled but we got in all in. Kilkenny was our first destination and little did I realize that driving in that city would be such a nightmare. Getting there was the only fun. The streets are narrow and twisting and our timing was such that we enjoyed not only the morning rush hour traffic, but garbage trucks and construction vehicles taking up most of the roadway anyhow. Eventually we got back and found a parking spot near the castle - and took the self-guided tour. This was not actually a choice, but the only option. Worked just fine.
Subsequently we had to move the car - ugh - but found a parking garage and then got back to the castle just in time for the city tour. I don't know if you'd call it by trolley or train but it had a driver in the first 'car' and a couple of other cars linked behind. The guide was recorded and played at appropriate points of interest, interspersed by traditional music, and to our chagrin, the barking of Typhoid Mary in the row behind us. So far we don't seem to have picked up the bug that ailed her, thankfully.
We spent some time wandering and dropped into the new Medieval Mile Museum. They've done a fabulous job renovating the old church into an amazing display space. But that's mostly what it was - space. There are very few exhibits other than medieval tombstones, a few swords and assorted limited other old things. We were less than impressed but as it was the grand opening, they let us in for free. Well worth the price.
From there we went to Rothe House and I asked to speak with Mary Flood, a researcher who has been very helpful over the years, so I could thank her. She was busy but since I "knew" her, they let us in there for free too. This was a terrific tour - three very old homes, well maintained, belonged to the merchant class. There were interesting artifacts. Best of all, at the top level, was a restored garden space. It was huge and for a reversal of the usual way, a parking lot was removed to put in the garden.
Then it was back to the car to get to Coolross and see the rest of the family. We had very little time but maxed it well. Off to the shed we went with Jim and Maria who mixed up the formulas and kept filling bottles. Heather and I, with help from Jim, got to bottle feed the swarm of hungry pet lambs. We had a great time.
But it was off again to the House of Stories at Ballyduff. In a thatched cottage, dimmed to candelight, we listened to recitatons, personal stories, music, songs and poems. There was Irish soda bread baked in a cauldron suspended over the fire - very tasty and served with loads of butter.
It was a pair of tired travellers that dropped into bed that night.
Wednesday we drove to New Ross and toured the replica of the Dunbrody Ship which had carried Fitzwilliam Emigrants to their new life in Canada. Our ancestors were on a different ship but the experience would have been the same. We were the only people on the tour. Bonus!
From there it was off to Kilmore Quay in pursuit of the best fish and chips in Ireland. Well, the place was still lovely but the chip shop didn't open till 5. We went back to Mary Barry's where Marg and I had eaten a couple of weeks prior. The fish cakes were just as tasty this time.
Said lots of good-byes to the family. We picked up Kathy D for a drink at Jim's pub in Carnew but made it an early evening.
Thursday was our journey to Cork - via Waterford where we just drove around and then got back on the road. First real stop was Blarney Castle. I declined to climb again - twice is enough. Heather made it up in record time and didn't have to wait. Moments later the line ups started. Yay again.
From there it was Kinsale and the sun came out. Driving first to Charles Fort we had super views of the harbour area and a quick stop at Bulman's Pub for a nostalgia visit. Once again the town offered driving challenges but we found parking "up the hill".
Then it was time to find the hotel and I must say there is no part of Cork traffic that I find amusing. The city is old, the streets are narrow, and the 'creative parking' puts one's patience to the test. We had to circle the hotel once and drive around the block to pull in near the hotel and unload. The Metropole is very old and is an interesting building. I think the walk from the lift to our room was about half a kilometer, and included four steps. I particularly enjoyed the steps while schlepping two suitcases. But - location was perfect.
Fading fast now - I'll bring you up to date tomorrow night.
Not ten minutes later a calf decided it was time to see the world and once more a great scene for a couple of city slickers.
Tuesday was probably over scheduled but we got in all in. Kilkenny was our first destination and little did I realize that driving in that city would be such a nightmare. Getting there was the only fun. The streets are narrow and twisting and our timing was such that we enjoyed not only the morning rush hour traffic, but garbage trucks and construction vehicles taking up most of the roadway anyhow. Eventually we got back and found a parking spot near the castle - and took the self-guided tour. This was not actually a choice, but the only option. Worked just fine.
Subsequently we had to move the car - ugh - but found a parking garage and then got back to the castle just in time for the city tour. I don't know if you'd call it by trolley or train but it had a driver in the first 'car' and a couple of other cars linked behind. The guide was recorded and played at appropriate points of interest, interspersed by traditional music, and to our chagrin, the barking of Typhoid Mary in the row behind us. So far we don't seem to have picked up the bug that ailed her, thankfully.
We spent some time wandering and dropped into the new Medieval Mile Museum. They've done a fabulous job renovating the old church into an amazing display space. But that's mostly what it was - space. There are very few exhibits other than medieval tombstones, a few swords and assorted limited other old things. We were less than impressed but as it was the grand opening, they let us in for free. Well worth the price.
From there we went to Rothe House and I asked to speak with Mary Flood, a researcher who has been very helpful over the years, so I could thank her. She was busy but since I "knew" her, they let us in there for free too. This was a terrific tour - three very old homes, well maintained, belonged to the merchant class. There were interesting artifacts. Best of all, at the top level, was a restored garden space. It was huge and for a reversal of the usual way, a parking lot was removed to put in the garden.
Then it was back to the car to get to Coolross and see the rest of the family. We had very little time but maxed it well. Off to the shed we went with Jim and Maria who mixed up the formulas and kept filling bottles. Heather and I, with help from Jim, got to bottle feed the swarm of hungry pet lambs. We had a great time.
But it was off again to the House of Stories at Ballyduff. In a thatched cottage, dimmed to candelight, we listened to recitatons, personal stories, music, songs and poems. There was Irish soda bread baked in a cauldron suspended over the fire - very tasty and served with loads of butter.
It was a pair of tired travellers that dropped into bed that night.
Wednesday we drove to New Ross and toured the replica of the Dunbrody Ship which had carried Fitzwilliam Emigrants to their new life in Canada. Our ancestors were on a different ship but the experience would have been the same. We were the only people on the tour. Bonus!
From there it was off to Kilmore Quay in pursuit of the best fish and chips in Ireland. Well, the place was still lovely but the chip shop didn't open till 5. We went back to Mary Barry's where Marg and I had eaten a couple of weeks prior. The fish cakes were just as tasty this time.
Said lots of good-byes to the family. We picked up Kathy D for a drink at Jim's pub in Carnew but made it an early evening.
Thursday was our journey to Cork - via Waterford where we just drove around and then got back on the road. First real stop was Blarney Castle. I declined to climb again - twice is enough. Heather made it up in record time and didn't have to wait. Moments later the line ups started. Yay again.
From there it was Kinsale and the sun came out. Driving first to Charles Fort we had super views of the harbour area and a quick stop at Bulman's Pub for a nostalgia visit. Once again the town offered driving challenges but we found parking "up the hill".
Then it was time to find the hotel and I must say there is no part of Cork traffic that I find amusing. The city is old, the streets are narrow, and the 'creative parking' puts one's patience to the test. We had to circle the hotel once and drive around the block to pull in near the hotel and unload. The Metropole is very old and is an interesting building. I think the walk from the lift to our room was about half a kilometer, and included four steps. I particularly enjoyed the steps while schlepping two suitcases. But - location was perfect.
Fading fast now - I'll bring you up to date tomorrow night.
Monday, April 3, 2017
Ireland 2017 - phase 2
Well, the genealogy has been packed up and the touring has begun.
Early yesterday morning - very early - I dragged my sleepless self out of bed and got ready for the drive to Dublin Airport. Heather's plane was due at 8:25 and it was on time. I left Bunclody shortly after 7 am and was in the terminal just minutes after the plane landed. We exchanged a few texts before she finally walked out through the gate. I don't think she realized how taxing the first day would be but she's a trooper, despite fatigue.
I'd had about 3 hours of sleep - about 3 more than she had managed on the plane. Being a good sport she was ready for the adventure. Instead of heading towards Bunclody, we set out for Banagher. This is a small town in Co Offaly in the central plains area of Ireland. Reaching it by motorway was easy. The Shannon flows through the town and we headed in that direction - downhill. I had no idea how to find the river but it was obviously not going to be at the top of the hills.
Just before getting there I spied the old pub J J Hough's. It is now quite famous and a tourist destination. To say the interior is seedy and tacky is to offer high praise. I think the curtains were hung about the time that weaving cotton came into fashion. They haven't been washed since either. The tables are small, the seats are either low stools or old armchairs. There is a small bar and there were a few loyal customers. This was Sunday morning - before noon. I guess it was 5 o'clock somewhere. We had a look around, saw the small open fire and left. They don't serve food and even if they did we would not have wanted to consume anything there. It was too dark to take pictures without the flash. If you want to see it you can google: J. J. Hough's Banagher. It would be a fun place at night with the music rocking the joint - possibly with a few handi-wipes on hand to wipe off the beer bottles.
Driving a bit further down the street we came to the marina on the Shannon River where we stopped for a picnic of sorts. It was a bit chilly but sunny. Nearby was a large ruined building which must have once been a workhouse or a mill. Turns out it was a workhouse. We roamed around a bit but there was no information posted.
Off again towards Meelick - the townland where an ancient Franciscan Abbey is still a church that is used all the time. We were given a tour by Mikey Horan who has lived in the area all his life. From there we drove, following Mikey, to the ancestral home of a friend's father. The cottage is now used by the family as a holiday home and is over 200 years old, still in the original family. A bit of misunderstanding meant that we missed seeing the little cottage next to Mikey's house, in which he still keeps a turf fire burning so moisture doesn't overcome it. That was the home of his grandmother and was the place Marg intended us to see. Next time.
The GPS and the Autoaddress app on the phone have been very useful in getting around. When I use the GPS I can glance at the screen to see if the instruction to "turn right" means immediately or in a few hundred yards. Well, even when using the GPS I didn't bother to glance at the screen. As a result we made some interesting turns and took a few more because my eye captured something of interest.
Driving through the town of Birr I made a mental note to come back next year and just walk around - it's eye candy. Parts of it reminded me of the Georgian Homes in Dublin and Edinburgh. Then there is Birr Castle - with its immense gates and walls. We didn't take the time to explore but it appears to be a huge parkland and I assume there is still a castle there. Absolutely on the list for next year.
Leaving Birr I'd had a look at the map and a bit of a plan for getting back to Bunclody. Well all plans go astray - especially on these roads with interesting views beckoning. The GPS was nattering away so I sort of paid attention. On a lovely narrow road we looked ahead to see what we thought was a herd of cattle crossing the road. Not so fast. They were coming down the road, towards us. Quickly I pulled to the left and parked, as did the vehicles behind us. A short video I've posted on FB will show you.
Thinking we were headed home on a main-ish road we ended up crossing Slieve Bloom and had the most magnificent views. We were on top of Ireland. From the first viewpoint we could see for miles and miles northwards. A few hundred yards later we could see just as far - looking south. I think we saw bits of Kildare, Galway, Offaly, Laois, Kildare, Tipperary and maybe Kilkenny. But I really have no idea. Needless to say it was spectacular. Pictures only begin to capture it. No decorated Christmas trees on this trip 'over the top'.
Eventually we arrived in Bunclody - after once more missing a turn going through Carlow. I hate that place. Well, that may be a bit strong, but even with directions being spouted at me I have never managed to get directly through on the same route. Sigh.
At Supervalu we picked up a roasted chicken and some salad and I cooked up some rice. Voila- supper. From then until bedtime, it was just a relaxing evening poring over maps and planning the adventures for the next day.
Here's a link to the photos I took.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/nnmqn6fbsl2v5n5/AAC2V8D_ScVeX_vrherdCGnYa
Today - a slow start. Shortly we'll head to Coolross and Rock Tavern to see and feed some sheep. Maybe some will choose to make their appearance in the world while we're there. It's cold and windy and looks like rain could fall any moment. Best not to have a photoshoot in mind.
Early yesterday morning - very early - I dragged my sleepless self out of bed and got ready for the drive to Dublin Airport. Heather's plane was due at 8:25 and it was on time. I left Bunclody shortly after 7 am and was in the terminal just minutes after the plane landed. We exchanged a few texts before she finally walked out through the gate. I don't think she realized how taxing the first day would be but she's a trooper, despite fatigue.
I'd had about 3 hours of sleep - about 3 more than she had managed on the plane. Being a good sport she was ready for the adventure. Instead of heading towards Bunclody, we set out for Banagher. This is a small town in Co Offaly in the central plains area of Ireland. Reaching it by motorway was easy. The Shannon flows through the town and we headed in that direction - downhill. I had no idea how to find the river but it was obviously not going to be at the top of the hills.
Just before getting there I spied the old pub J J Hough's. It is now quite famous and a tourist destination. To say the interior is seedy and tacky is to offer high praise. I think the curtains were hung about the time that weaving cotton came into fashion. They haven't been washed since either. The tables are small, the seats are either low stools or old armchairs. There is a small bar and there were a few loyal customers. This was Sunday morning - before noon. I guess it was 5 o'clock somewhere. We had a look around, saw the small open fire and left. They don't serve food and even if they did we would not have wanted to consume anything there. It was too dark to take pictures without the flash. If you want to see it you can google: J. J. Hough's Banagher. It would be a fun place at night with the music rocking the joint - possibly with a few handi-wipes on hand to wipe off the beer bottles.
Driving a bit further down the street we came to the marina on the Shannon River where we stopped for a picnic of sorts. It was a bit chilly but sunny. Nearby was a large ruined building which must have once been a workhouse or a mill. Turns out it was a workhouse. We roamed around a bit but there was no information posted.
Off again towards Meelick - the townland where an ancient Franciscan Abbey is still a church that is used all the time. We were given a tour by Mikey Horan who has lived in the area all his life. From there we drove, following Mikey, to the ancestral home of a friend's father. The cottage is now used by the family as a holiday home and is over 200 years old, still in the original family. A bit of misunderstanding meant that we missed seeing the little cottage next to Mikey's house, in which he still keeps a turf fire burning so moisture doesn't overcome it. That was the home of his grandmother and was the place Marg intended us to see. Next time.
The GPS and the Autoaddress app on the phone have been very useful in getting around. When I use the GPS I can glance at the screen to see if the instruction to "turn right" means immediately or in a few hundred yards. Well, even when using the GPS I didn't bother to glance at the screen. As a result we made some interesting turns and took a few more because my eye captured something of interest.
Driving through the town of Birr I made a mental note to come back next year and just walk around - it's eye candy. Parts of it reminded me of the Georgian Homes in Dublin and Edinburgh. Then there is Birr Castle - with its immense gates and walls. We didn't take the time to explore but it appears to be a huge parkland and I assume there is still a castle there. Absolutely on the list for next year.
Leaving Birr I'd had a look at the map and a bit of a plan for getting back to Bunclody. Well all plans go astray - especially on these roads with interesting views beckoning. The GPS was nattering away so I sort of paid attention. On a lovely narrow road we looked ahead to see what we thought was a herd of cattle crossing the road. Not so fast. They were coming down the road, towards us. Quickly I pulled to the left and parked, as did the vehicles behind us. A short video I've posted on FB will show you.
Thinking we were headed home on a main-ish road we ended up crossing Slieve Bloom and had the most magnificent views. We were on top of Ireland. From the first viewpoint we could see for miles and miles northwards. A few hundred yards later we could see just as far - looking south. I think we saw bits of Kildare, Galway, Offaly, Laois, Kildare, Tipperary and maybe Kilkenny. But I really have no idea. Needless to say it was spectacular. Pictures only begin to capture it. No decorated Christmas trees on this trip 'over the top'.
Eventually we arrived in Bunclody - after once more missing a turn going through Carlow. I hate that place. Well, that may be a bit strong, but even with directions being spouted at me I have never managed to get directly through on the same route. Sigh.
At Supervalu we picked up a roasted chicken and some salad and I cooked up some rice. Voila- supper. From then until bedtime, it was just a relaxing evening poring over maps and planning the adventures for the next day.
Here's a link to the photos I took.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/nnmqn6fbsl2v5n5/AAC2V8D_ScVeX_vrherdCGnYa
Today - a slow start. Shortly we'll head to Coolross and Rock Tavern to see and feed some sheep. Maybe some will choose to make their appearance in the world while we're there. It's cold and windy and looks like rain could fall any moment. Best not to have a photoshoot in mind.
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