Our full day in Cork started with the Hop on Hop off bus tour which hit the highlights. We hopped on at the third stop and off at the last, which was also the first. From there we explored the English Market and local shopping streets. We didn't buy anything. Once our feet were done, we hopped back on and got the intro to the tour. Two stops later we got off at our hotel where we had started. It was a fun tour. Possibly the most amazing part was how the coach driver navigated streets that I swear were narrower than the bus - and they weren't all one-way streets. My opinion is the bus was built by Harry Potter Enterprises so they could morph to whatever shape was required to fit in tight spaces and around impossibly tight corners.
We declined to climb the tower and ring the bells at St Anne's Shandon. There was an opportunity to tour the jail which once housed both men and women, in separate wings. We'll probably tour Kilmainham Gaol in Dublin instead.
The afternoon was a genealogist's dream. Frank Keating and his daughter Leah - cousins of Heather's - picked us up. Frank grew up in Cork and navigates the streets light a tour bus driver, just with a smaller vehicle. He was able to show Heather all of the properties where her ancestors lived before leaving for Canada in the early 20th century. The Scanlons were a wealthy family so the reason for their emigration is still a mystery. They had a fabulous big home, on a hill overlooking the city. We were able to climb the 35 steps from the street to the front door, but didn't get in. There are 7 fireplaces, judging from the number of chimney pots.
We met them again for supper in town and later Declan joined us for drinks at our hotel. We talked until after midnight when a wedding party - already all roaring drunk - staggered to the next table. At that point they were so loud and obnoxious that we called it a night.
Saturday morning dawned bright and sunny and the temperature later reached the high teens, Celsius. I pointed our car north towards Limerick and off we went. Our guide was the bossy voice in the GPS. We went as far as Ennis, Co Clare, on main roads. Then the fun began. To see more we set the machine for Kilrush. With a preference for back roads we saw more than we had bargained for but it was all amazingly lovely.
Once parked in Kilrush we asked two ladies for a recommendation for lunch. The Potter's Hand was a short walk away and worth every step. In conversation with our server, we learned that the locals prefer the cliffs at Kilkee to the Cliffs of Moher, where we were headed. Nothing beats local knowledge, so Kilkee was the next destination. Wow is the only word to use. Parking was free and we just followed the path, past the cafe and up the hill. And up the hill. And up the next hill where I pointed to the top and said "Nope". But up we went and up some more. All the way to the top. The reward was a fabulous view and a need to take off the jackets. Heather timed our return walk, which was non-stop going down, and it took about 25 minutes. Almost to the bottom we watched some idiots in bathing suits navigate the rough rocks where waves were crashing, in order to plunge into the cold Atlantic waters. I was afraid we were going to see a mass drowning. Fortunately, they all got out safely, screeching about the cold water.
From there is was on to the Cliffs of Moher. It was my third visit and the third time the weather was great. We had to wait in line to park the car, but then up we went again. Our reward was a perfect view in the early evening.
Unable to find the right Maldron hotel with the GPS we did get to one a few miles away from our destination in Galway and they gave us directions. We're on the edge of town - a 20 minute walk got us to the pedestrian shopping and dining area.
Today we took the coastal route through what became a desolate rocky landscape. It really was not our taste in views. We lunched on the coast at Clifden but declined to take a flight or a ferry to the Aran Islands. We got into mountainous territory but with the rain and cloud we only saw the vague outline of most mountains, including the Twelve Pins. They are there but we missed them. We did stop at Kylemore Abbey, once a castle. Its designation changed when it became home to the Benedictine Nuns. The rain was heaviest while we were enjoying the interior of the 'castle' and we wandered in the lovely gift shop for a bit.
On to Westport, which was so busy we didn't stop. Also, it was still raining. Rather than retrace our same route back to Galway we used the Autoaddress app to bring us to Castlebar, then Ballindine and on to Galway.
We walked into town for supper but didn't stay for the traditional Irish music which didn't start until 9:30. We are now watching the Masters. Tomorrow, a tour of Galway city and some time wandering the interesting shops. Then on to Dublin for our last stop before flying home. Here are some links to pictures:
Saturday: Kilrush, Kilkee and Cliffs of Moher
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/dpyrmv3jbsj3otq/AADdn3r_YJUX3O_ZF29EM6kPa
Sunday: the rugged west coast of Galway and Mayo
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/rt59sdztg6fvp3a/AABXBO-_GpfTpKbdkHIxMVjra
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