Off we went in our Renault Megane with me at the wheel. As we were headed southeast the drive was almost entirely into the sun. Now it's hard to complain about a nice day, but driving "into the light" with a lot of dappled shade between the road and those stone walls and thick hedges, turned into somewhat more of an adventure than anticipated. Using an app we had directions which took us past some truly beautiful views, most of which I did not really enjoy as the journey was mostly on L roads - the ones so narrow there is no point in painting a white line. My eyes had only one mission - watch the road.
Drawing close to our destination, just after rounding a bend, I hit a water-filled pothole. As luck would have it this was a tire-munching pothole. Within a few yards the "Stop" light on the dash was dinging and flashing, so I pulled off the road. Fortunately there was a place to do so at the foot of a very steep lane. Also luckily, the flat tire was on the left so changing it would not endanger life and limb from oncoming vehicles.
With roadside assistance available from Hertz, the phone was pressed into service. Help was to be dispatched as soon as possible. Just then, a tractor drove down the lane that stopped where our lame vehicle was now parked. The farmer jumped down and offered assistance. His name was Patrick, and silently I added "Saint" to his name. Hertz was called again and informed that help had arrived by local means.
It didn't take Saint Patrick long to exchange the damaged tire for the (Oh happy day!!) full size tire in the trunk. As the tire happened to have sustained damage to the sidewall, later in the day I had the pleasure of purchasing a replacement, a Bridgestone - the priciest tire, er tyre, in stock at Top Tyre. Ah well, it had to be done. Hertz requires replacements to be the same as the original.
Back to the lighthouse. (Saint) Patrick suggested we stop at the Templar Inn just down the road, for lunch. I invited him to be our guest but he declined. Said anyone would have helped. Well I suppose any Irishman would have, in my experience. We stopped to have lunch there but the Templars must have been out on a crusade, and the place was closed.
On we went and in a couple more kilometres we arrived at Hook Head. There was a lovely cafe where bowls of seafood chowder and fresh home made brown bread provided the perfect remedy for our hunger. Sitting at a counter facing the window, we had a lovely sea view of crashing waves to enjoy while dining.
Noel was our guide for the private lighthouse tour and it was much more interesting that I'd have thought. This is the oldest original lighthouse in the world at about 800 years. It was originally built as a little monastery, with 12 foot thick walls. There are 115 steps to the gallery, where visitors can go outside and enjoy the view. Fortunately, there were a couple of landings on that staircase, where the original dwelling area of the monks once existed. There are huge fireplaces and even a pizza oven. I don't suppose it was used for pizza at the time. There were also two original, um toilets, large holes placed more or less vertically in the walls. The 'drop zone' was within the walls. Hmmm. I didn't ask how one might actually make use of these.
The spiral staircase to the top was also built within the walls, fortunately not in firing range of the toilets. This staircase winds upwards counter-clockwise, making it easier to carry a bag of coal up to the top, over the right shoulder. As this was not built as a castle and no sword fighting was anticipated, the stairs did not have to wind clockwise for right-handed swordsmen. The entire structure is an architectural wonder. When it became a lighthouse, the keeper, his family, his assistant and his family, lived in the two areas once used by the monks. Tight quarters indeed.
The view was worth the climb and spectacular in every direction. The inlet next to the lighthouse is the entrance to several ports including Waterford and New Ross. When leaving Ireland for Canada in 1847, Arthur Byrne and family would have sailed passed the Hook Head Lighthouse, possibly the last part of Ireland they would ever see.
From there, on the recommendation of Noel, we navigated those narrow little L roads, to Tintern Abbey. No, not that one, but named for its famous Welsh predecessor. There are lovely walks to be had and a walled garden to enjoy. Our stop was short. We had a mission to fulfill.
Our mission, and we chose to accept it, was to get to the Hertz outlet in Wexford to deal with the tyre issue, and to (fingers crossed) get a somewhat smaller vehicle. I really wanted a VW Golf. We got a replacement vehicle, another Renault, that is somewhat smaller, but almost tall enough to be a little SUV. It has fewer bells and whistles, but I'm hoping it's narrower for navigation purposes. I was able to relax and enjoy the drive home from the left passenger seat.
Supper was referred to as pancakes, but more delicious crepes would be hard to find. My compliments to the chef, who even did the dishes.
The weather forecast for tomorrow is appallingly short of delightful. It sounds miserable and wet but somewhat milder at 10C, so grocery shopping is likely to be the adventure du jour.
I have not yet contacted any relatives but will probably make a phone call or two shortly to touch base.
Thus ends day one of Annie's adventures in Ireland, Episode 11 if I haven't mis-counted.
Your homework is to find the relationship between Hook Head and the expression 'by Hook or by Crook". Suggested source: https://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/by-hook-or-by-crook.html
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