Wednesday, March 7, 2018

To use GPS or not to use GPS - that was the question.

Leaving Moss Cottage in the rear view mirror I headed out the lane and down Hospital Hill, waving good-bye to Bunclody. My bags were packed and I was heading to my intermediate stop for lunch with the girls at the Chester Beatty Inn, Ashford.

I've made the trip many times and quite confidently left the bossy little talking machine uplugged and sitting on the passenger seat. The only diversion was to not take the narrow road from Ballycarney to Ferns, and take the N80 to the roundabout instead. It really doesn't take any longer and while not as scenic perhaps, it was fully cleared of snow. I didn't know if the same could be said for the route past my favourite thatched roof. There were excellent views of the hills and later the Wicklow mountains. There's still lots of snow on them thar hills. There were no opportunities to pull over and take pictures.

I made excellent time and arrived early at the destination so after checking that the Stephens were home, drove to Rossanna Farm where I deposited a bag of foodstuffs I'd not consumed, along with a small shopping bag of items I'll retrieve on my next visit.

The subject of "the tree" came up and I was treated to a ride in Eugene's jeep, wearing a pair of available wellies (my size!!!), over to see the spreading chestnut tree. It is featured in a book of the best trees in Ireland by Aubrey Fennell. Sadly he's not one of my Fennells.

This beast of a tree has the largest circumference of any tree in the Emerald Isle. It's arguably also the most gnarled as well. Guarded by attack geese, it sits in solitary splendour in a field often used for equestrian events. Indeed it lives up to its reputation as being worthy of viewing - if not very accessible except to those who know how to get there. Thank you Eugene.

Subsequently, Margaret and I headed to the Inn where Anne O was waiting and Lynne L soon happened along. We dined well and caught up on our news for almost 3 hours.

At 4:30 it was time to head to the airport and my hotel for the night. I had not updated my GPS with new maps and it didn't recognize the hotel name. My Irish smart phone was playing dumb and refused to admit I had data available. Now what? Lynne to the rescue. Google maps showed that one had merely to take the M11 (nearby) which turned into the M50 and follow it to the large roundabout at the airport. Instead of taking the airport exit (first one) I was to take the third exit to R139 and that would take me to the hotel.

What a brilliant plan that turned out to be. Almost too good to be true, it was so easy. The last time I was part of an attempt to reach the Clayton Airport Hotel, following a very bossy app, we ended up driving in circles, always returning to the M50 and not reaching the hotel for quite some time. This time it came up so fast on the next roundabout that I almost missed the hotel sign. What I did miss was the first exit to the hotel at the roundabout, so I merely drove all the way around and exited as if that had been the plan all along. Almost shades of the Grisewalds' European Vacation but I did get off the roundabout at the correct exit, after the exploratory trip all the way around.

Checking in was quick and easy, directions to the airport to return the car were easy, and returning the vehicle was easy. I got the Hertz shuttle to the terminal, walked to Area 16 and within a few minutes the hotel shuttle showed up and ferried me back to the Clayton.

I'm now happily relaxing with my tiny perfect bottle of wine and will shortly call it a night. After a few weeks in a single bed, I'm looking forward to enjoying this queen size beauty tonight. I've redistributed the contents of the two small suitcases, making one quite heavy - to be checked baggage, and the other quite light - to be heaved into the overhead bin.

That dear reader, ends my 2018 Winter journey to Ireland. Barring the unforeseen, I shall wing my way home tomorrow TO FRESH SNOW. NOOOOOOOOO.

There seems to be a problem with the wifi being incredibly slow to upload pictures from the phone so I'll add a final post in a day or two with a link to a selection of pictures.

Farewell until next time ...

Bright sun, cloudless skies, and a couple of packed bags

Well here I am, coffee at hand, and it's my last day in Bunclody. The sun is shining, the snow has all but gone from the yard and apparently the roads are clear from here to Dublin. Well, they're clear if you take the right roads. My route will be somewhat altered to exclude the run from Ballycarney to Ferns. I'll drive a little farther south on the N80 to the roundabout at Enniscorthy and then loop back north on the N11 towards Dublin. I will miss nodding to Ferns Castle as I loop around the town on the highway.

Congratulations are in order for the entire country in dealing with massive amounts of snow with minimal amounts of equipment. Only Dublin airport had what appeared to be lots of plows, and even then got shut down. There was just no getting ahead of Storm Emma until she was good and ready. She took her time exacting her toll. It will take massive amounts of money to pay the bills and that does not include the time and fuel spent by innumerable farmers who cleared back roads and lanes so that their neighbours could get out for supplies. This is on top of caring for sheep and cattle who had to be brought in from the fields and dealt with constantly as the water pipes froze. Carrying buckets of water for livestock is nobody's idea of fun. In the midst of the chaos there were baby lambs whose arrival could not wait for the weather to clear. Undoubtedly many calves also made their first appearance as snow piled up around the sheds.

Grocery store shelves are once again stocked with bread and milk. I learned that while chocolate hazelnut milk is not ideal for coffee, it will do in a pinch. As an aside, it doesn't impart a lovely chocolate hazelnut flavour to the beverage at all and in fact, is not as sweet as plain milk. However, as my only hardship, this is meant as a comment not a complaint.

The strains of "Leaving on a jet plane" are rolling around in my head. I can't quite say "my bags are packed" but it's getting close. I've parted company with the big purple suitcase and many of the clothes that I've grown more than a little tired of here. Will I manage to get everything destined for Canada into the two carry-ons? One will be my checked bag and is bursting at the seams. As long as those seams hold tight for the journey I'll be content.

Yesterday I had a lovely salmon dinner at noon with Kathy D at the Carnew Community Care centre. After we'd finished eating, the gentleman sitting opposite me began his spiel as the local matchmaker. Say what? He finally decided, sensing my lack of interest, that I'd be too difficult to match up anyway. Whew!

In the evening I had a wonderful supper with Kevin and Eleanor Lee and their grand-daughter Millie. Kevin surprised me with news that he has access to some uncatalogued documents which may provide, for sure, the name of the ship my Byrne ancestors sailed on, and how much money they were given for their passage and for settling in Canada. Will the ship turn out to be the Progress? If so, it could pretty much confirm my assumption that it was "our" William who died at Grosse Ile. It may also reveal whether baby Jane made it on board the ship, or perished before the family sailed. Fingers crossed. I'll send him enough information so he knows it's the right family.

There are just a few tidy-up chores to finish here at Moss Cottage. The biggest is stuffing the suitcases. My return visit is already shaping up in my head so we'll see how the planning works out and whether and when I set foot again on Irish soil. So many mysteries remain.

Shortly before noon I'll load the car and head for Ashford to meet Margaret, Anne and Lynne at the Chester Beatty Inn for a late lunch. After that it will be a drive on the always-busy M50 to return the rental car and check into the Clayton Hotel for a relaxing night before departure. Given the potential for getting snarled in rush hour traffic tomorrow morning, I decided to spend my last night in expensive comfort. I have my single-serving bottle of Merlot packed and the cheese and crackers will join it shortly.

There may be a follow-up post before I take wing, or maybe not. All in all it has been a wonderful visit once again. I explored more wonders of this country that I've come to consider my second home. With castles around every corner and beauty everywhere you look, I'm already deciding where I'll point the car on the next visit.

Monday, March 5, 2018

Freedom and escape - but almost not

It all looked very promising. The lane was mostly clear and our gravel parking area had lost most of its snow. Today was the day to drive out.

Not so fast! Where should I go? The smaller roads are still not cleared and I really only needed to get some protein for supper and tomorrow's lunch. I needed a destination. Libraries were closed, schools were mostly closed (although I couldn't think of even one of those I wanted to go to). So, I asked my local experts, Mary and Brian. They weren't able to think of anywhere accessible but ultimately did suggest the walk into the golf club from the main street. It was paved and clear. Yesterday they walked there from home. Today I decided that would be my destination, but from the main street.

Then as I was about to leave, they were attempting to escape in Brian's car. It is a bit uphill to the paved lane and sure enough, despite some innocuous looking slushy snow and loose gravel, it took some time to get to the paved lane. Almost to the edge of the asphalt and the wheels started spinning.

Hmmm, how would I approach this? Brian had turned his car around to face the lane. I would just back up that little hill. Hah! Not so fast. I had to make several runs at it, with Brian keeping an eye on things. It had to be a relatively quick run but I didn't want to end up smashing into their vehicle now parked in the lane, up a little ways, making sure I got out.

Eventually I met with success and we proceeded into town. Getting to Aldi was not much of a challenge as far as the roads were concerned. What was a challenge was the fact that the roads were not cleared to the edges and folks just park any sort of way that is kind of but not really, off the main thoroughfare. This applies particularly on curves and corners. With that successfully negotiated I got to Aldi, purchased the needed supplies, including a mini bottle of wine for Wednesday night at the hotel, and headed back to the main street.

There was no place to park that looked easy enough to get into and then out of. I tried the library lot and found the spot a bit precarious so managed, after a few tries, to get out of the slush and back onto the road. Might as well go up to the pharmacy next to SuperValu and buy a replacement eyeliner pencil.

Parking was easy. I had spied a good spot on the left side of the lot. The spots on the right were not completely cleared because the snow had merely been pushed forward, and took up about 25% of the depth of those spots. It was not a problem until I wanted to back out and the car opposite, was sticking out into the lane. Once again, disaster averted, I decided to go and find a parking spot at the golf course.

Good plan. Not possible. After turning into the lane I found their gate closed and locked. No dice. OK, back down the street. Not a spot to be found that was easily accessed. Market Square? Nope. Folks had parked nice and far apart so spaces were already taken or blocked. OK, back home it is.

This time I parked in the space just at the turn of the lane, out of the way, on the paved part. Brian had cleared it prior to my arrival back home, and I pulled in, leaving all four wheels on the pavement. Leaving should be a no-brainer. There doesn't seem to be snow in the forecast.

So, here I am back again in the cottage. Nothing to report and nothing I feel like doing. I've packed up the clothing I'm donating in the big purple suitcase I'm also giving away. That's off to the thrift shop tomorrow afternoon. The remainder of my stuff does fit in my two small bags so all is well.

Once again I managed to fill space with pretty much nothing at all. I'll upload and add a photo later of the mess of the parking area after the two cars had finally gotten free.

Sunday, March 4, 2018

There might be light at the end of the driveway

The thaw is proceeding slowly, which is what the authorities were hoping for. Perhaps this will avoid the flooding which is pretty much expected as this huge quantity of snow melts and drains into the rivers. The only area of Ireland that is mentioned on the news as a potential problem, aside from coastal towns, is the stretch between Bunclody and Enniscorthy. Guess where I have to drive!

This area remains on orange alert, or possibly by this evening, has been reduced to yellow. Everyone is encouraged to keep their cars at home unless absolutely necessary. Well, tomorrow it will be absolutely necessary to do a grocery run. I'll just buy a few prepared meals because I only have two full days left at Moss Cottage.

Today's weather varied from cloudy and dull, to raining, to bright sun and blue skies. However, the temperature remained a few degrees above freezing and the snow is disappearing. The cars are pretty much totally visible now, and somewhat cleaner than before Storm Emma dropped in.

I've trudged around in size 11 men's boots for a couple of days. Finally I realized that if I leave my slippers on and then put the wellies on top, the fit is much better. The orthotic, however, floats freely and makes walking something less than comfortable when the heel portion pretends to be the arch support.

Today I only ventured as far as the shed to do some laundry. That is my last attack on dirty clothes before the final packing. I'm putting some effort into determining what to take home (very little) and what clothes to leave behind (as many as possible). I am not storing them here this time but disposing of them by donating them to a thrift shop at the Carnew Community Care village where Kathy Doyle lives.

While the laundry was agitating, I managed to pick up a few threads of family stories I've been writing and think I've done a final edit on a couple of characters. When you only have records to reconstruct a life there's not much you can add but the facts, and a bit of historical context.

With travel being restricted, there will be no visit to Kilkenny to see the pubs and other points of interest with a family connection to the McGraths. That will wait for the next time. I'll stay in touch with my newly discovered distant cousins and with some luck and new record releases (no not the musical kind), maybe we will have figured out the common ancestor, or MRCA in DNA terms.

Enough blather about nothing at all. Hopefully tomorrow will bring a happy adventure to fill a few lines.

Saturday, March 3, 2018

Chocolate hazelnut coffee it is!

Today's the day - the melt has begun. I'm taking the same photo out the dining room window to track the regression of the snow. There is progress but not fast enough for my liking.

Knowing there was a smaller pair of wellies in the shed, I got ready for my trek into town and went directly to the shed to try the boots. After some struggle I managed to wedge my left foot into a black boot. I only had to tuck three of my toes under in order to get it on. Walking that way was just not going to happen. A few minutes later I had got it off. Back to the big green men's size 11s with the fabric, string-tied top. That little added featured was most welcome. The snow in the lane is higher than the boots and having been able to tie them up mean that none of it landed inside the boots. Yay!

It was obvious that many had preceded me up and down the lane. Just a little bit over from here on the same lane is a nursing home. I would guess, without knowing, that possibly staff were the hardy souls going in and out. Either that or the residents had developed severe cases of cabin fever and were escaping on foot.

My hopes of the street having been cleaned off were dashed in a hurry. Instead there were tractor tracks that formed paths suitable for using to get down the hill. However, with the overly roomy footwear, and the slightly slippery surface in those tracks, I opted for the lumpy snow covered areas and managed not to fall.

Just at the gate I encountered a party of four walking into town. Always taking the opportunity to strike up a conversation, I started chatting. One lady identified herself as a Redmond. Well, it just so happens that I'm keeping my ears open for Redmond news for a friend. This lady suggested checking at the library to see what books they might have. Redmonds are everywhere in Co Wexford. Will I ever find the right bunch for Pat? Nothing ventured nothing gained, but no venture today.

I took some pictures along the way and my formatting skills being minimal, shall simply put them at the end of this missive.

The main road at the bottom of Hospital Hill was plowed, more or less. Well, less. But there was some traffic. The main street hosted several cars which had found parking between mounds of snow in front of the shops. Some remained closed but my destination was Eurospar grocery store. It's not my favourite but is the closest.

I headed directly to the dairy products. Everything but milk. I really only want it for coffee so thought I'd pick up a small bottle of cream when there was no plain milk to be found. The only cream was already whipped, so that was a non-starter. However, they had Chocolate Hazelnut milk and so I bought a container. It will be more than sufficient to last me until departure on Wednesday. My coffee should be a notch above what I've been using to start every day. I hope.

I picked up some lemon puffs, simply because I haven't had any for decades and they used to be a treat, and a small packet of crackers (the name brands being exorbitantly priced). At least I hope they're crackers. They are Cricks Salty Snack Biscuits. I need something to put under a slice of old cheddar cheese which I already had in the fridge. Then I tossed in 2 bananas because you never know when you'll want to eat a banana.

As I wandered around outside, taking a few photos of the rather different scene on main street, I began to appreciate the wellies less and less. My socks were snarled around my toes and complaining with every step. I'd have bought a nice pair of thick work socks but no shops that sold them were open. I could have walked up the hill to the coop near the SuperValu but it may not have been open. By then my feet would have been complaining more loudly and I'd have had that same walk back, only downhill.

By that point it was raining, although it wasn't an issue. My outer jacket is quite waterproof and with the hood up I was quite snug. Warm actually. The rain abated slightly and as I look out the window now it's quite steady and hopefully doing its job melting snow.

There were copious quantities of slush already as the temperature is about 4C. It's that lovely brown mucky slush - just made for splashing around in wellies. I ignored the opportunity to splash and just came home and here I am. The jacket is drying and the chocolate hazelnut milk is stored in the fridge for tomorrow's wake up call.

Last part of the walk into town


Market square view from Eurospar



Market square looking towards the bridge over the Slaney


well he probably had good intentions but ran out of places to dump the snow


Just have to get.back.up.that.hill


my supply of snowballs is greatly diminished - no longer a threat



And these are the supplies I brought home
the pack doesn't look it, but is soaking wet from the rain

Friday, March 2, 2018

No, I'm not back in Canada

As this blog is primarily my own travel diary, I'm going to be rather wordier than usual so I have a reference for the future if asked to recall "the big storm of 2018" when a Siberian air mass collided with Storm Emma from the south and smacked into Ireland. I'll continue to come back to Ireland but will bring some winter boots next time. Hopefully they will just be a ridiculous space-grabbing item in the suitcase. All of Europe is affected by this weather. Even Venice has snow. But, England, Scotland and now Ireland are most affected. If this hit Scandinavia they'd think it's just another day, only warmer.


Well, it seems that my doubts about the severity of the storm were wiped out overnight. I didn't notice any horrible winds because it is cosy here and the windows don't let in any drafts. There was snow on the windows on three sides of the cottage so there had been some wind and swirling snow while I slept. And the snow is not stopping.

I think someone said "Let there be snow" and forgot to say "Enough!!" Still waiting for it to be called off. Now would be a good time to do that. Apparently it will turn to sleet and rain before the precip stops. Feels very much like home. Well, except for the temperatures. These temps feel fine.

There's a lot of moaning and warnings about the cold. It's barely below freezing. Cold? I think not. The "stay in the house" warning has been lifted but folks are told to please stay off the roads. People were rescued from abandoned cars, an ambulance got stuck, and if you were on the road you probably slipped all over the place. Cars would block the passage of emergency vehicles. The army is helping out. No tanks have passed by Moss Cottage - yet. I'm hoping they provide transport to a pub.

TV reports were all doom and gloom and I guess they were not an exaggeration at all. Weather reports were constant and still are. This 'event' has totally taken over RTE 1 The affected areas varied and unlike the usual worst weather happening on the Wild Atlantic Way, it was Ireland's Ancient East that took the brunt of this snow attack.

Just heard something a bit strange - Dublin Airport is open but all flights are cancelled. I wonder, do they have de-icing facilities? That might be the only place to find a cafe open today but hardly worth the trip. Then again, you can't get there from here. Or basically get anywhere from anywhere else. I can't get to Eurospar and it's just down the hill. Don't know if they are open anyway.

Dublin opened emergency shelters for the homeless but apparently there were still 15 people identified as refusing to come in. They don't want to be dragged into "the system". Folks expressed great fear that they could not survive a night outdoors in -2C temperatures. Warm clothes or blankets and waterproof tarps were given to them. Honestly, they won't freeze. Compared to the conditions under which the homeless sleep rough in Canada, they are in no danger, they just won't be comfortable.

It's hard to say just how much has fallen here but it would be at least a foot. You will see from the amount on the top of my car that it's a substantial amount. The snow is heavy and sticky. Because it's going to warm up on the weekend, and the roads are impassable except to tractors and heavy vehicles preferably equipped with snow tires or even chains, nobody is shovelling much. It's just going to melt and then the warning will be of floods. The fun never ends.

I emailed my hosts in the house right beside me, asking if they had an old pair of wellies. Sure enough Mary replied that there were some in the shed. I managed to get that far in my shoes and found the boots. They were a bit big and apparently had been abandoned by an archaeologist who once stayed here. But - boots they were, and that was good enough. No need for warm lining.

At home I don't normally go out to play in the snow but I had cabin fever. I slogged through the snow in my borrowed wellies, out to the street - a distance of about 100 yards. That was a lot of work so I turned around and came back. Briefly the idea to build a snowman sneaked in, but my efforts showed a distinct loss of talent in that department. I settled for a few snowballs, ready for battle. Believe me my throwing arm has not improved over time. If you're over 10 feet away you are safe from any onslaught I might attempt.

While outside, Mary and Brian came to the door and we chatted briefly. Mary invited me to dinner. The distance between our front doors is probably 20-25 feet. I think I'll make it. Lucky I only had one glass of wine last night so I still have most of the bottle to take over. Maybe I'll bake something too. I'll just type the ingredients I have on hand into a search box and let google find me a recipe.

The snow continues to fall and it's almost noon. It's lovely to look at - if you were perhaps, on a ski vacation. This is seriously cutting into my visiting of the townlands of the ancestors. I guess I'll just have to come back again (and again and again ...). Maybe I'll try to rent a dog sled. Wait - I'm not in Canada. Perhaps I should bring snowshoes next year.

Enough for now - will update when it seems appropriate. Here are some photos.



What greeted me on opening the front  door.



What I had on my feet to get to the shed to pick up the wellies




and then I was ready to go. The boots are only about 3 sizes too big but will do just fine.



as I started the walk I looked back at the cottage. Green door is the shed.

My little fortress on the left. The lumps at the end are cars.





someone had already walked out to the street so I didn't have to blaze the trail



I was too warmly dressed - should have listened for the temperature not the description as 'freezing'.



and looking back down the lane towards the cottage whence I had come. No longer are there daffodils and snow drops to greet me. I don't think they'll look very good when the snow has melted.



view from the dining room window - pretty much the same now but more snow in the past couple of hours since I came in and it's still not letting up.

Thursday, March 1, 2018

Snowmageddon or much ado about nothing?

As I type this it is 2:30 pm on Thursday, March 1. TV and radio are talking about nothing but the imminent collision between a Siberian air mass and Storm Emma. All public transportation will end at 4 pm if not before. Up to 50 cm of snow is predicted along with gale force winds which will turn it into a major blizzard. With a light fall now on the ground - a few cms - and flakes kind of wafting around, it's hard to imagine that in a couple of hours we could be in a real life snow globe.

I'm all cosy here and have candles ready. The flashlight has a weak beam now but I have two phones which can "let their little lights shine" if I need something brighter. There are enough duvets for half a dozen and I have them all to myself if need be. As long as the power stays on it will be just a game. The water does not depend on an electric pump so I needn't fill the bathtub or several bottles. Tea and coffee won't be too tasty if I have to use cold tap water. I'm cooking up a few things so have no worries about being short of provisions. I might just make a loaf of bread - it seems to be the thing to have on hand.


from the dining room window around 11 this morning - pretty benign and it has stayed this way




I have my supplies ready just in case



this is out the kitchen window - I'll take more as time goes on

My various devices are charged or charging and I'll have a few hours to use the computer. Of course if the power goes out there's no wifi backup system and I'll be offline. That will be the only challenge I foresee.

I'll update here if there's a significant change in the weather. The midlands seem to be getting the worst of it so far but I'm in the predicted path of doom. The public works folks are beavering away keeping things as clear and safe as possible on the major roads. At the same time everyone is warned NOT to go out. The secondary roads are not being sanded - or gritted - and the tertiary and more rural routes are a matter of having a suitable tractor to take you around. In Cork, farmers are providing tractors for transportation to the hospital of medical staff, who would otherwise not be able to get to work.

I only have one bottle of wine and a dark chocolate bar that is supposed to pair with the Malbec so don't need more supplies if the storm only lasts a day.

I'll post now and will update as things change.