Finally we have wifi

The following post was written offline. Between our busy schedule and lack of wifi, the following post was written earlier today. The previous few were also just written. 

Catching up

Some general musings to start with. 

Sheep - whose numbers are about three times larger than the human population of Iceland. They can be seen pretty much everywhere but rarely seem to stay in large groups. It’s most common, in my limited sheep-seeking experience, to see more than a few at a time. They come in a few colours. Of course, they are predominantly white, but we’ve also seen a good share of black sheep, some brown, grey and some even a kind of motley combination of the above colours.

Their wool is not so much curly and long and shaggy. All appear to be suitably fat but perhaps under that long coat, they could be quite svelte. Lamb is the most common meat and features in many meals. We’ve enjoyed lamb soup a few times and to my palate there must be only once recipe. And it always turns out well. It’s not highly seasoned but suits my taste buds.

The wool can be quite soft or sometimes ‘stiffer’. Alas, I still cannot tolerate wearing wool unless it’s lined with something. Usually that is the sort of fleece used in jackets or hoodies. I may buy a skein or two before heading home and will then figure out what to knit. Backwards? Yes, but I’ve never claimed to do anything the usual way.

Horses - Icelandic horses are a pure breed now. They are all descended from a few different breeds brought here generations ago. They are very sturdy, with longish manes, and strong legs that are somewhat shorter than horses in North America. To insure that the breed remains pure, if an Icelandic horse leaves the island it cannot return. Racing is popular. I understand that galloping down mountainsides is also a “thing”. So sure-footed are these animals that the rider can go almost anywhere - up or down - safely.

A unique feature of Icelandic horses is their 5th gait. They learn it from each other I believe. It’s quite remarkable to see someone astride one and not bounce up and down. The ride is quite smooth I’m told. I saw a rider galloping? down a lane and she/he seemed to barely move in the saddle. The ship offered an excursion on horseback but it’s not for me. I wanted to be able to walk the next day.

Puffins are constantly in the conversation but they have left for warmer climes - about a week before our cruise began. There may be a few in a rescue sanctuary but the wild ones have left. You can see tons of pictures and souvenirs with their image.

A short while ago off the side of the ship along the southern coast, we could see the “blows” from several whales. But there was no breaching. They were merely teasing us. A few morning whaling excursions from Husavik saw nothing but a few sea birds and maybe one porpoise. The afternoon sailing did see a couple. We spotted some blows in a fjord en route to Dynjandi waterfall but again - they must be saving their strength for breaching when we’re out of site. Or perhaps they were just shy. Once again we are on the cusp of their departure for their southern breeding ground so not many remain.

We’ve encountered a few occasions of rough seas. Two nights the swells were about 1.5 to 2 metres. It got somewhat more exciting last night as the waves increased to 3 metres. Moving about the ship was an excursion in itself. We could all have earned the nickname “Lurch”. I chewed a couple of ginger tablets just in case, but motion sickness is not something that I’ve ever experienced. 

Because of the turbulent conditions we are very late getting to our last port in the Westman Islands, on the southwest coast. For a while after sunrise we could see the beautiful cliffs along the southern coast. However, they were just distant enough that photos would have been disappointing. It was nice to simply enjoy the view and tuck it into the memory bank. There were glimpses of sun. We’ve been told that it is likely not to rain on Heimsay where we will dock around noon.

The population of Iceland is 350,000. About two thirds of the people live in Reykjavik, about 18,000 in Akureyri and several hundred in various communities, with yet others being even smaller. 

Icelanders love their coffee and they like it strong. YAY! Susan has had some difficulty finding decaf, but on the s although it is instant.

Lunch will be our next activity. Seems like eating is our constant activity, even though we have excursions and walks most days. Each community visited is just a little different from the others.

The staff on board is terrific. They give talks, lead excursions, and last night they entertained us at a “Crew Show”. Not all exhibited their talents but there were singers and dancers - from Germany, Iceland, he Philippines, Mauritius and South Africa. At the time of the performances, the ship was encountering the high seas so extra kudos for maintaining their balance. 

We were served a “chocolate surprise” which I figured would be some kind of cake. Well - let me tell you it was THE most extraordinary “death by chocolate” buffet that I’ve ever enjoyed. Sacher torte, Black Forest cake, profiteroles, macaroons, meringues, After Eight cake, and many others. I didn’t try them all of course. The pastry chef on board was responsible for all of it. Yummy to the max.

Our stay in the Westman Islands will be short due to the late arrival and we will just do a walkabout in the town. I will catch up on the missed ports later.

Just back from a walk in town. This town was devasted by a volcanic eruption in 1973. By a fortunate spell of bad weather the fishing boats from here were all in the harbour and the airport was open. Despite the devastating eruption, all of the inhabitants but one were evacuated on the fishing boats. Some older or ill people were flown out. The only casualty was a man who had succumbed to the gases and smoke.

The town has built a volcano museum, the main feature of which is the entire house of one family. It remained buried for 40 years and when it was dug out, many items were identified. Nothing was salvageable. It was left as is and the museum was built over and around it. Fascinating. The story is recounted by an audioguide as you move around.

It was sunny as we left the ship and walked into town in search of the museum. Then it rained and we got soaked en route. When we emerged, it was sunny once again.

Now we are aboard for the final evening. Tomorrow we disembark after breakfast. There are a few hours to spend in Reykjavik before heading to the airport. The ship has made the arrangements for storing our luggage and we can get the airport transfer at the dock. It's a 5 minute walk into the centre of town.

So - this is the last entry for a while. Should the packing go very smoothly (I haven't bought much so space is not an issue) I will try to add photos to the recent posts.

Thank you for following this journey. It has been amazing. Iceland is a wonderland. We of course have a rosy view of their weather as it was not at all typical - which is cloudy and wet. We've had little rain in the grand scheme of things. Tomorrow we wish for fair winds and smooth flight. Adieu.

Djupivogur

No more fjords protecting the harbours. The dock in Djupivogur was almost on the eastern coast and barely sheltered. When we left the ship for our excursions, we had to bring along our Zodiac life jackets in case the ship had to move away from the dock because of wind or sea conditions. Luckily the vests were stowed beneath the buses and we didn't have to keep them in our laps.

This was our first day of rain - and rain it did. All day. Heavily. We kept hoping the weather would change if we waited a few minutes but that never happened.

Everyone dressed in their best rain gear and over the course of the day we found it inadequate. A couple of people did remain dry all over. My jacket was fine - proved its guarantee was valid. The rain pants - nope! They were the ones I used for golf. However, when it starts to rain I usually stop playing so they had never really been tested. They failed the test. A shopping trip will be in order when I get home.

The destination du jour was the Glacier Lagoon, where small icebergs which had broken off the glacier, floated around in the lagoon which is now about 30 square kilometres and growing, as the glacier recedes. To see the icebergs close up, we boarded amphibious truck-boats. No roofs. Seats were soaked wooden benches. They did attempt to squee-gee them before we sat down. The effort was futile. The rain continued to bucket down. 

It was however, a wonderful experience. A zodiac follows each duck boat - I suppose in case someone decides to test the water as a swimming hole. It's about 2C and supports life for mere minutes after exposure. We all remained aboard our tour vehicle. Once off the land we could stand up and look around.

There was on spot which is a favourite swimming place for seals, who quite liked the chilly water. A flotilla of tourists in bright red kayaks brightened the grey landscape.

The icebergs themselves were multi-hued white-blue and black. The black is volcanic ash. They all eventually drift down the river from the lagoon and out to sea where they break up. Some of the pieces are later carried onto the black volcanic sand beach by the incoming current. This is diamond beach where the sparkling chunks of ice resemble diamonds. At least they do when it's sunny - which it was NOT. The rain never let up.

Lunch was delicious lamb soup (vegetable option provided) and some very tasty bread which seemed in short supply. Then it was back on board "the bus of death" for the return trip.

We had the same driver but he drove much too fast for conditions - rain, turns and hills. We left the road surface twice but he didn't slow down. The comment form would not have given him any compliments - terror on the part of passengers doesn't lead to good reviews.

Safely back at the dock we saw the ship still at the dock so we could board via the gangplank and didn't have to tender in the zodiacs. The Zodiac vests are once again stowed in the cabins.

Seydisfjordur - Gateway to Europe

This is the port closest to Europe and used by a large ferry that arrives twice a week. It's a huge boat bringing loads of people and cars, mostly on holiday. As a result there is a customs' building that we had to pass through as we left the port for the town. 

In the morning it was cloudy with lots of low hanging clouds. They made the landscape look rather mystical. It's a very small place, population-wise, but very important as the entry port. Luckily for us the ferry had been in the previous day and the Ocean Diamond had the dock to itself. We took a walk guided by one of the staff of our ship.

This is also an important fishing centre and is deep in a fjord. The water is very calm and we were able to have a fjord tour in Zodiac boats. We keep our Zodiac vests in our cabins in case of having to tender to shore, or for the tours. Luckily we have not had to tender except at Hrisey a couple of days earlier.

The ship was at anchor as the port was very tiny and could not handle the ship. The water was choppy, the wind was blowing and I got a seat on the side of the Zodiac at the front. The seat of choice is as close to the back as possible. My rain pants failed the waterproof test. Ugh! But it was fun.

In summer, Seydisfjordur is a busy colony of artists, musicians and tourists. Sadly for us they have all left. Very little was open - including places recommended to visit. The beauty of the surroundings were worth taking in anyway. We learned that the houses are usually built of wood but have a sheathing of corrugated metal. The climate is so wet that the wood would rot. The metal is painted, or was in the past. Now, the homeowner can simply choose the colour of aluminum corrugated siding that he/she wants and is then free from the chore of painting the house.

The traditional colour seems to be white with red trim. A lot of the homes have interesting window frames and some have specially decorated front doors. Often there is a small plaque naming the house and the year it was built. The exterior can be re-clad many times so even a house that is 100+ years old can look in quite good condition.

The main religion here is Lutheran. The churches all have a pretty similar exterior design and the insides are quite unadorned. However, every one we went in had a magnificent pipe organ - appropriately sized for the building.

Husavik, whales and a ceremony

Husavik was a stop where we had no excursion books. The sun was shining. Susan had booked a spa morning so I set out to see what I could.

The Whale Museum was interesting and featured the skeleton of a huge blue whale that had washed ashore some years earlier. There were plenty of bones and skeletons but no animals were sacrificed to obtain them. They were all from beached animals. If only I had remembered that it was a blue whale - as that came up in a trivia quiz. We tied with several other teams but would have won if we'd chosen "Blue" instead of "Humpback" whale as one answer.

After that I walked up - of course up - to the Husavik Museum which is also a public library. They had interesting displays of everyday items and life in the past. There was also a great display of fishing gear and small boats and three mannequins dressed as fishermen. Each one was wearing mittens - with a difference. Not only did they have thumbs, but also a smaller "thumb" for the little finger. This makes them more useful for the fisherman to keep his hands warm and still have enough dexterity for the job he was doing. I don't recall seeing any such mitts in shops but I suppose the fishermen's wives or mothers made them.

In the afternoon Susan joined me for a while and then we wandered separately again, but there wasn't much more to see. Each town seems to have a nice playground and each playground features a permanent "bouncy" thing. It's right on the ground but works like a bouncy castle. 

That night we crossed the Arctic Circle at 66 North and had free drinks on the pool deck as we counted down to the position of the circle. The actual latitude and position varies somewhat. It was really chilly but fun and we were all awarded certificates for having made the crossing. Fun!

Akureyri - more sunshine

Sorry for the gap folks. They keep us busy on the ship and then the shore excursions take up the rest of the time, even if we just wander on our own. 

With the afternoon plan for golf firmly in place, we simply wandered around Akureyri in the morning. We really do have to walk much of the time to at least make an attempt to work off the wonderful meals. Even breakfast has different options every day. You can order a custom omelet but the scrambled eggs, some sort of vegetable, bacon, sausage, beans, pancake or crepe or breakfast burrito, porridge, yogurt, fruit, dry cereal, etc. offer more than enough options. And NO, I don't eat all of that. I top off my eggs and bacon with some fruit and sometimes one of their tiny croissants. Oh yes - I forgot the potatoes. They are so delicious that most days I give in and try a couple. Coffee in Iceland is like coffee in Seattle - everyone drinks it all the time. And I can assure you that it's high octane. Even the thought of decaf is pretty foreign and it's very hard to find. On the ship they use instant but do make it in a pot to provide the illusion of brewed coffee. 

Off we headed into town. By that time you'd think we'd have realized that it's all uphill baby. Emphasis on the up. The main shopping street is near sea level. Apparently it allows vehicular traffic when there aren't enough pedestrians to warrant keeping cars out. This is being rather late in the heavy tourist season, cars were allowed.

There is little lacking here by way of consumer goods. The country is self-sufficient in dairy products, lamb, fish and, dare I say, chocolate. The numerous geo-thermal-warmed greenhouses must provide enough tomatoes for all. There was no sign of them growing but potatoes are also available and consumed in large quantities.

Our destination was the botanical garden - yes, this far north. Some of the ladies of the town of 18,000 decided that they needed a showcase for local flora and over time a magical botanical garden came to life. It is beautifully laid out and the numerous paths and different little areas make it absolutely charming - even in the rain. There was a sprinkling while we were there but it lasted only a few minutes.

From there we found a path downhill to sea level again and had to pass the famous ice cream shop. Luckily it was not yet open. We drifted along the path to the port in time for lunch.

Lunch - it is more than amply taken care of with sandwiches, water, fruit, cheese and sometimes brownies or biscuits for those on excursions. For those on the ship, they should have to go via the gym. There is always a delicious soup, fresh vegetables, salads, meat, fish and vegetarian options. In fact half of the main course options are vegetarian. 100% of the options are delicious.

At one PM we were picked up by taxi and taken to Akureyri golf course. We had booked a power cart - one of two they have. The seat was carefully mended with duct tape. The pro (?) sort of dusted it off, pointed us to the first tee and said it would be easy to find each successive hole. Well - sometimes it was.

Driving off from our first shots we realized that it would be a bouncy journey. The "fairways" were like riding over railway ties or speed bumps - all the time. And it was very hilly. There were lots of blind shots, requiring us to drive up to peer over the hill to see where we should aim. The fairways were almost always tilted to one side or the other. The ground was very firm and we got quite a lot of roll - not always, or even often, in the desired direction. The quality of the fairways was nowhere near what we expected, having read that this course was the site of the Arctic Open and among the top 100 courses in Europe. Perhaps the author of that rating was thinking of mini-golf courses. 

BUT - the views were spectacular. The sun shone all afternoon and we had a lot of fun. The greens probably had a few flat spots but we couldn't find them. My putting was the best part of my game in spite of that. The clubs we had were, um, serviceable, if we took what was needed from whichever golf bag had the right club. 

At the end of the round it was a different chap in the pro shop and he knew nothing - not even prices. The voucher for our return taxi had been given to the first pro and he couldn't be raised even on his mobile phone. Luckily there is only one taxi company in town and the driver who was summoned called dispatch and got everything sorted out. 

Each evening we get a presentation on what to expect in the next port, along with the weather report. Every day it seems, we are told to expect sunshine in the morning. We almost always got sun. There was the odd sprinkle but nothing significant. Comments about how fortunate we were and how this was the only cruise with such good weather, could be heard from the whole crew.

Siglufjordur in the sunshine

This morning we declined the opportunity to visit the Herring Museum and just walk around the town - with a different destination in mind. Those who took in the museum said that the show of cleaning herring and the story of the history of herring and how it influenced Icelandic history said it was fun and interesting.

We slept a bit late after the late night, and after breakfast almost as the dining room was closing, we set out in what seemed like a chilly day. The bright sunshine and lack of wind made it very pleasant.

We took lots of photos of this gorgeous place among snow-capped mountains. The houses were interesting and very well kept. The whole town seems litter-free. Eventually we found the place we were looking for - Frida's coffee and chocolate shop. 

This place is so different. Frida made all the unique chairs, other decorations in the cafe and yard, and she hand makes all the chocolates. I don't know when she sleeps. Of course we bought some chocolate to take home, including a strawberry chocolate bar with cranberries. We sampled the "all dressed" hot chocolate with whipped cream and salted caramel, and enjoyed it to the last drop at a picnic table in the yard.

After walking back to the ship we enjoyed lunch on board for the first time. It was a fabulouse buffet with delicious Borscht soup for starters. There were lots of choices for the meal.

The weather looked fine but the waves around Grimsey Island and the prediction of larger ones to come, made Zodiac trips unsafe. Instead of staying along the coast we headed down the fjord towards Akureyri where we will dock later tonight. Our stop was made at Hrisey Island. There is no dock so the ship downed anchor and the Zodiac parade began.

It was a rather damp trip but we were well warned to put on our waterproof jackets and pants. Five people are seated on each side of the boat and I ended up at the front. That meant that I got quite wet from the spray as we bounced along from ship to the tiny harbour. Good thing my jacket was really waterproof (yay) but my golf rainpants alas faced a bigger task than they were up to. Note to self - get yourself some really rainproof pants when you get home. After the prices here it's going to seem like a bargain to go shopping in Ottawa.

The crew and ship staff help each person in and out of the zodiac and make sure your strange little life jacket is properly "installed". It was actually quite fun. The sun had disappeared but it didn't rain. Now that we are back onboard, the sun is shining once again.

We just walked around a bit and then took another Zodiac back to the Ocean Diamond. It was a bit smoother and I also sat further back from the front so it was a drier trip too.

Tomorrow in Akureyri it is supposed to be wet in the morning. Luckily the sun is supposed to reappear around noon and our golf excursion starts at 1 pm. Fingers crossed.

Photos later.

Monday in Isafjordur – another sunny day

Another day dawned clear and bright - weather we have come to expect. It's like we swallowed horseshoes and snacked on four-leaf clovers.

The tour du jour was a bus ride around a fjord and up to a waterfall. The first part was on a paved highway and was smooth and uneventful - just the way you want a bus ride to be.

Our first stop was at a museum and chapel. The museum told the story of Jon Sigurdsson who was pretty much the father of Iceland as an independent democracy. He was quite the guy and so determined to do what he could for the people of Iceland, he was engaged for 14 years. I suppose credit for patience must also go to his beloved Ingeborg. She was several years older than Jon and was 41 by the time they married. She was thought of as the first lady of Iceland. They actually died only 9 days apart and had a double funeral.

The site of this free museum is a hillside overlooking the fjord and the views are spectacular. While the museum is a new building, the cafe is a series of three joined cabins with severely peaked roofs. These roofs are like an extension of the nearby grassland. I suppose they provide great insulation, if not a nice tidy appearance. We declined the coffee and treats and tried to spot the whales playing in the fjord that apparently others in our group did see.

From there we headed towards Dynjandi falls. Getting there was half the fun on the unpaved gravel road, although it was in pretty good shape. What we didn't realize was that the road was steep and twisting and narrow and rose to a height of about 1600 meters above sea level. Ears popped several times. Those who don't care for heights were somewhat nervous - to put it mildly. The driver covers the route quite often and there were no mishaps on the very sharp turns. It's a well-travelled road but there wasn't much traffic at the time.

Eventually we arrived at the base of Dynjandi. It was easy to see the five different "drops" that make up the falls. Each one is separately named. To see each one up close you must climb, and climb and climb. The terrain is pretty easy for the first one you approach. After that the challenge is real.

As we went up the sun was right in our eyes making it a bit of a challenge. As this is a natural area it doesn't have nice even steps. There is a path and you must avoid the loose stones and try to use the larger stable ones. I doubted whether I'd make it up - and back down again. However, I did get almost to the top. The photos I took were not spectacular but they do document the adventure.

Once safely back at the base we ate our packed lunches and re-boarded the bus for the trip back - along the exact same route. It was a bit cool but the bright sun and effort of climbing make it perfect.

Arriving back on the ship we recalled the previous evening's briefing on how to use the Zodiac life jackets, in preparation for boarding the rubber Zodiac boats for a tour of the fjord that afternoon. We declined that tour but looked forward to using them to explore Grimsey Island at the Arctic Circle.

There was a Northern Lights watch. Of course the start and finish of the spectacle doesn't work on a schedule. Nature makes the rules. We had a presentation on the scientific explanation. The speaker might know what he was talking about but we found that listening had a rather soporific effect. It was also a test of hearing and patience as he refused to keep the microphone close enough to his mouth so that we could hear him well. But he did say that it would be the last chance to see the Northern Lights on this cruise. 

We stayed up until about midnight, shivering on Deck 7 in anticipation of the light show. Eventually what seemed like a thin band of cloud began expanding and moving and we realized that "this is it". The show lasted about half an hour and the light danced in various smooth, circular, and spiky formations. I was not aware of any colour but apparently they were green. The gases determine the colours but multi-coloured displays are not that common it seems.

Reykjavik apparently had a display that was far more spectacular but we were happy to tick that off our "what do we want to see" on this cruise. Fortunately we had not signed up for the early morning walk to the Herring Museum, and we decided not to set an alarm for the morning.
I will upload photos later.

Sunday from Grundarfjorder

Our port was changed but our excursion remained the same. The sun was shining as we had our tasty breakfast and then assembled for the bus. There were multiple buses for a few destinations. Our trail was the perimeter of the Snaefellnes (who knows how to spell it?) Peninsula.

We had glorious weather almost all the time until our return at 3ish. It did rain a couple of times while we were driving between our waypoints but every time we got off the bus the sun came out. It's not recommended to take photos from a moving bus. However, we couldn't resist. Some turned out quite well.

From one point we disembarked for a "walk". Well, OK, exercise is good. Well - what spectacular views that you would never guess from the road. Much of the scenery reminded me of the Cliffs of Moher and both the Giant's Causeway and Staffa. The walk was easy on a gravel path - actually crushed lava. The whole island is volcanic and we keep hearing that many of the volcanoes are active and some are "(over)due to erupt". As long as they wait until Sept 10, we're good.

Iceland is very protective of its environment. Littering is minimal. What was surprising to learn is that you may NOT take any rocks out of the country. The airport crew is more than happy to carefully check and issue fines of hundreds of Euros – or tens of thousands of ISK – before you leave. No excuses like "I didn't know". There is some jewellery made of a sort of lava that is acceptable and they know the difference. Fortunately, geology samples are not on my list of 'must-have' souvenirs.

Our final stop was at a Shark Museum, where we heard about fishing for Greenland Sharks, and how they are processed. It takes months to get the shark meat that is not poisonous to humans. I shudder to think of how they found this out and apparently nobody knows how they figured out how to make it edible.

So - we had "shark tasting". I did try it. Now my question is: why on earth did they bother? The taste is not totally foul, but left me queasy for about half an hour. I tried the tiniest piece I could find. The process is to dip it in schnapps (Icelandic) for a few seconds and then chew and swallow. The longer you chew the stronger the taste. I think I had three chews and a swallow. Then a tiny piece of rye bread to take away the worst of the taste. I won't bother to do that again.

Here are a few photos from today - they might come out a bit bright but I'm not doing any editing at this point. More tomorrow.

just caught it at the right time - raining when we went by later

Reminded me of Giant's Causeway and Staffa

Who doesn't love a view like this?

Enjoying our packed lunch at a place that starts with B

Another boring gorgeous view

Shark meat drying

Not sure why they need a tractor

Aboard the Ocean Diamond

Saturday was our only really wet day so far and we were on the move all the time. There is free wifi onboard but not in the cabins and by the time we were finished with the first day's proceedings it was too late to seek it out and write the blog. We had to get up early for an excursion. So, let's back up a little.

Public confession here: I was trying to take a night photo from our hotel room on Friday night, by pressing my camera against the glass of the window. I chose the window badly. It was the only one that opened and that was little more than a crack. However, when the phone/camera slipped it dropped 7 stories. By the time I got down to the sidewalk, all I found was the screen protector. I looked all over, as did hotel staff, but to no avail. It's hard to imagine any smartphone surviving such a drop, but possibly mine did. Someone must have retrieved it immediately and took off. I can only hope it's useless. I had backed up almost all of my photos to the cloud, except for a few from Friday. I suspended the phone service so it could not be accessed by anyone. Of course they could take out the SD card where I had thousands of pictures. They are all backed up except for a few. 

That left me without a phone - which I used only on wifi for Internet access, but more importantly without a camera. I found out the best place to buy some sort of replacement. It didn't come cheap but I now have a Samsung A20 which has a great camera. It can be used all over the EU. So that means another large expense when I get home. If anyone is going to be travelling where this phone works, you are most welcome to borrow it. I only got a data plan as I have no desire to phone anybody from here.

Now, kindly have a laugh at my expense (my great expense) and never mention this to me again. Thank you.

So - purchase completed and phone set up, off we went. There was a constant drizzle all day but we wandered up and down the streets surrounding the hotel - testing the camera of course. We went back to the Grillhusid for a nice bowl of asparagus soup for lunch around 3. Too bad we did.

When it came time to board the ship we collected our bags from the hotel and trotted off in the now slightly heavier rain, for the port. It was only about 10 minutes on foot with suitcases.

A friendlier crew you will never find. There was a lovely buffet set up on board and a very smooth process of registration and finding our room. We bypassed the food. We have the most spacious cabin I've ever enjoyed on a cruise. There was room for all of our things. Dinner was about 7:30 and followed by more presentations. We finally called it a day around 10:30. Sleep was elusive.

Craters, tomatoes, horses and a potato

As I type this in the warmth of our hotel room, a glance out the window shows that the light is perfect for photography. But, it's waaay too cold and windy. The temperature is 6C  and the wind must be at least 30 kph. The idea to stroll around the harbour area was quickly postponed until the morning. It's 8 pm and still bright.

The Golden Circle didn't disappoint. Our mini-bus tour was even more than we could have hoped for. The company was friendly and the sun shone on us almost all day. It was on the chilly side and more than a little bit windy, but bright and dry.

Our first stop was at a lava crater. Surprisingly, the earth? crushed lava? gravel? was red. The lake at the bottom of the crater was a brilliant green. We 'circumnavigated' the crater on the walking path that took us up and around and back down. I declined to travel down the stairs to the lake itself - because of the walk back up.

Susan and Ann (wearing Dad's Tilley Hat). We did the walk up the hill and across behind us - about 20 mins round trip.

From there we headed to a greenhouse at Fridheimar, where they grow hydroponic tomatoes. It's quite the computerized operation, but it's all organic. The cherry tomatoes we were given as samples were very sweet and juicy. They also grow plum tomatoes and the regular round red sort.  There are some boxed beehives around the greenhouses for natural pollination. The source of the bees is the Netherlands and they are constantly replenished due to the short working lifespan of the bees. They don't produce honey.

Sunflowers at the greenhouse

We enjoyed a cup of fresh tomato soup - possibly the tastiest I've ever had. That was our lunch although a later lunch stop was part of the tour.

A short drive took us to a geothermal area with bubbling pools and one predictable geyser. With great anticipation, we waited for Geysir to do its thing. This is one of many geysers yet it remains unnamed. It erupts about every 5 minutes. I was able to capture one of its water explosions on video and got one pretty fair still shot. The water in the nearby stream is 80-100C. Geothermal activity throughout the island makes electricity pretty cheap. It provides the warmth to the above-mentioned greenhouses. There are numerous hot springs around the island, the most expensive and best known is the Blue Lagoon. 

Geysir - local spelling

A brief stop enabled us to see Icelandic horses up close. They are a very sturdy breed, somewhat short-legged and they have a special gait that is interesting to watch. The rider doesn't bounce up and down at all. To keep the breed pure, if an Icelandic horse leaves the island it cannot return.

Icelandic Horse

From there we oohed and ahhhed at Gullfoss. The name means Gold Waterfall. It is divided into two levels for a total drop of about 30 meters. I never got to a lookout from which to see the river that runs off at the base. It is fed by a nearby glacier which isn't visible near the falls. The water in the river, just before it drops at the falls, is almost white. 

The last stop was at Pingvellir, the national park that has the only above ground spot where you can see where the North American and Euro-Asian tectonic plates parted company. Not being fluent in geology, I could be corrected. It is also home to the largest lake in Iceland with water so clear you can see 160 meters underwater. It's popular with scuba divers who must wear dri-suits to protect them from the 2C water temperature.

There was lots of driving between stops and this was a whole day adventure. We got back to Reykjavik just after 5 pm. 

There were lots of restaurant recommendations but we just wandered the nearby streets as we are in the heart of the city. Our decision was Grillhusid - the oldest diner in Iceland. Both of us ordered the lamb skewers. The lamb was done to perfection and it was served over salad with a baked potato on the side. I almost ignored the potato but decided to take a bite. When I finished there was no sign that a potato had been anywhere near me. We asked what variety it was as neither of us had ever tried a potato that tasty. It was sweeter than a sweet potato. Turns out it was unique to Iceland. I might have to move here just for the potatoes - and those greenhouse tomatoes which are not exported either. I'm giving serious thought to smuggling one back to Canada.

And so ends a perfect day. We caught up on our missed sleep last night, although falling asleep despite extreme fatigue was challenging. Our room is warm but one window opens a smidge. It lets in just enough air, but also the clacking and rolling of the skateboarders in the plaza below. They must be diligent because they were at it for hours. It's now 9 pm and still bright but definitely the sky is dimming. Bonus - the skateboarders must have found a bar that they like.

WOW - what a day!

The holiday started with a pretty fast flight - just under 5 hours. It took us from hot summer to chilly fall, but we kept the sun. The flight was uneventful if rather bumpy. The pilot had the "stay in your seats and buckle up" message sounding every few minutes. Sleep eluded us completely - as expected. It wasn't stomach-churning turbulence, just bumpy.

On arrival at Keflavik International Airport we disembarked from the back door of our 767, and trudged onto waiting buses. In the terminal it was all pretty orderly, if somewhat of a long trot with none of those lovely moving sidewalks. But our bags showed up and we found our way to a small shop selling various food items. A chicken sandwich and a yogurt came to $12-14 (can't recall exactly). But they hit the spot.

From there we found the FlyBus kiosk and learned that the bus to the Blue Lagoon left at 7:30. It was not yet 7 AM, so we ate and waited and then caught the bus.

Right away we felt at home - there was plenty of construction. By Ottawa standards, the roads didn't seem to me to need improving but construction seems to be in season here, as it is at home. 

The Blue Lagoon was a wonderful way to start the holiday. As we were among the first to arrive, the process of trading our voucher for towels, robes and flip-flops and finding a locker, showering and changing, took a very short time. That shower was incredible - very warm and very strong.

And then the real pleasure began. We wended our way down a couple of flights of stairs and took an indoor ramp into the pool. Well, some pool. It was endless. The colour was a light aqua and the water being saturated with minerals, notably silica, you couldn't see your hands once they were submerged about 5 inches. But the temperature was like perfect bathwater. There were a few warmer spots.

Blue Lagoon

Bridges at the Blue Lagoon

Harpa concert hall in Reykjavik

Hot dog stand

Susan enjoying her gourmet dinner

We wandered slowly like a cloud - oops, no daffodils. We meandered through the water of varying depths and temperatures (all warm), under bridges, and if desired through caves.

Eventually, we located the kiosk where we got a handful of white silica "paste" which we dutifully applied to our faces. The large clock on the wall lets you know when your 5-10 minutes is up. I'm not sure if your face falls off if you wait too long to wash it off but we didn't risk it. We're hardly recognizable now and have to ask for senior discounts. [Well, we wish].

After turning into Icelandic raisins, nicely water-withered, we got out - and moved pretty briskly indoors to the towels and robes waiting for us. The outside temperature got up to 12C today. And after a bright but overcast start, the sun came out. It was glorious.

The warm water was incredibly relaxing so we moved from chairs to lounges and proceeded to rest comfortably for quite a while.

The next phase involved getting back into the pool, heading off in another direction, this time to the bar where we enjoyed Strawberry smoothies. You have to experience sitting on an underwater bench, in aqua-coloured warm water, sipping on a cool fruit drink, to really know how lovely it was. Ahhhhh

Then it was time to shower, change and head for the bus into Reykjavic. By this time the sun was still shining on the lava fields, whose main vegetation was moss. But I did detect the odd struggling flower. Vegetation got somewhat lusher as we approached the capital. They even have trees here - not a lot of trees, but enough to be notable. And more flowers. 

We were the last passengers off the bus and found that due to narrow twisting streets, and lots of construction, we finished the journey on foot. Hurray for suitcases on wheels. Arriving at the Center Hotel Plaza, we checked in. The room is very clean and has a lovely shower and the teeniest sparkling clean sink. The two beds are comfy and shall shortly be occupied for what we hope will be a nice long sleep to get over the jet lag and lack of zzzz's last night.

However, there is not a drawer to be found and the closet is full with only 4 hanging items. There are 4 USB ports (thank you), and a huge round post between the bed and the window. Not really a decorating feature I would recommend. The view is lovely and we can clearly see the famous church, whose name starts with H. The crane operator kindly directed his activities away from our view so that we got a couple of decent pictures.

We had a bit of a wander through the shopping street just out our front door. Eventually, we found "the famous hot dog stand" and enjoyed an early dinner, not having had lunch other than the smoothie. http://www.bbp.is/information-in-english There are a number of pretenders to the Hot Dog throne but we got directions to the right one. Cheapest food in town.

Everything is VERY expensive. Coffee is $7. We're still gawking at the coins and wondering how much we actually have when we get change. Purchases other than food are eligible for a 15% tax rebate at the airport upon departure.

At this point, I'm almost cross-eyed and ready to call it a day. It's only 6:15. I have not figured out how to get the pictures from my android phone to my Mac laptop, directly. Sorry the pictures are all together. I'm too tired this evening to put them in place. I'll do better next time.

Some hopeful news on the weather

Having all day to get ready I've been getting as much new Iceland information as I can - notably on the weather. It is supposed to be 12C and sunny-ish on Friday so we've booked a mini-bus tour of The Golden Circle. 

This will cover a popular area that is not accessed on the cruise. They suggest rain gear and hiking boots so I suppose fitness will be tested right off the bat. We have the suggested gear but hope not to need the rain stuff. Just in case, I sprayed all jackets, shoes and rain pants this morning to add a measure of waterproofing. Dad's Tilley Hat will be my headgear of choice. My blue toque will be headgear of last resort if we encounter really nasty cold weather.

We will set out from Windy Ridge at 5 pm to give us enough time to get to the airport for 7 pm, through Toronto traffic. Despite a hiccup of the travel agent forgetting to book our seats, we have that sorted out now. I'll shortly check in online to hopefully shorten the airport experience.

I will probably use some time today to learn a few helpful phrases in Icelandic. Based on the cost of things I can probably start with "which way to the nearest ATM?"

Off to Iceland

I'm back on the wandering trail again - Iceland this time. Departure is set for Wednesday evening with a very early Thursday morning arrival at Keflavik airport. Aside from the airport name and the capital city, Reykjavik, I may not be able to pronounce the name of any other place we visit.

So, armed with a guidebook we shall explore Reykjavik and one lunchtime will line up with the locals for one of the specialty hot dogs I've been reading about. They'd better be tasty as they have a special place in the visitors' guide. We'll let you know.

Check back here from time to time to see what we've been up to. Now, where is that warm waterproof jacket?

Fire and Water

I have not been posting sections/chapters of the story of Ned in chronological order nor necessarily in the order in which I expect them to be organized in the final product. This section was very difficult to write - or more particularly to read aloud, just to myself. I would welcome suggestions for removing some of the duplications that are in the text. The family referred to the place as Long Island, although it is actually Nicholl's Island. Just how much do I have to explain of that? I am not satisfied with how I've handled that aspect here. Is it important? My audience is the family and they all know what is meant. It is based on the stories I've heard all my life as well as the extensive newspaper coverage of this event. My mother, Rita, was just a child of 8, and my grandmother was Aggie. This marked them for the rest of their lives. I have yet to mark the illustration of the geographical features which depicts the area in a time a few decades before the story occurs.

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The deluge continued as Ned sipped his tea and waited for the friend who would drive him, and his sister Mary Killeen, to the train station. Minnie had been away for two weeks visiting her sister in Montreal and Ned was missing his better half. Nanny and Daddy McGrath, as they were known to the family, were the king and queen of their summer camp at Nicholl's Island. It wasn’t far out of town, just below the Long Island locks a couple of miles from Manotick. Instead of spending the weekend at the camp with the rest of his family, he had decided to join his wife in Montreal. His sister Mary Killeen had asked to go along and of course her company was very welcome. They were taking the train on Friday afternoon. By dinnertime he would be reunited with Minnie at her sister’s home. The awful weather did nothing to dampen his spirits at seeing his beloved Minnie again.

Ned and Minnie on the flats beside the cottage circa 1927.

The land around the McGrath family summer home, called Camp Fay, teemed with children all summer long. Most were the grandchildren of Ned and Minnie, or of other McGrath cousins and friends. The chatter, laughter and occasional cries and protests echoed across the flats. That was the grassy area in between the cottages. Friday July 22, 1927 had been exceptionally quiet, at least outdoors. It had been raining since early morning and to their mothers’ chagrin, the many children were confined to the indoors. The cottages were anything but spacious because almost all the fun happened outside. Mothers and children  moved to the camp when school finished for the summer. Fathers stayed in the city for work, but motored to the enclave every weekend. It was always called “Long Island” even though it was on Nicholl’s Island. Although their chores didn’t magically go away for the holidays, some just seemed more fun because there was always someone to help out. After all, the sooner the work was done to their mothers’ satisfaction, the sooner they could resume swimming, boating, playing baseball or tennis, or whatever other amusements they enjoyed. 

Laundry was done in large tin tubs and the clothes were sloshed around with a large plunger. This looked like a giant inverted funnel, attached to a broomstick. Holes were cut in the narrow end of the funnel portion so that air could escape as the plunger was moved up and down repeatedly in the soapy water with the dirty clothes. With kids taking turns it was one of their games. Gathering brush for the Saturday night campfires meant being away from Mama’s watchful eye for a little while, and maybe taking a little while to pick and eat the wild raspberries. If you found yourself with any spare change, you might sneak in a visit to the tuck shop. None of that happened this day. Reading or board games or getting into mischief were the only options.

Young Frances looked out the window at the rain and fretted. “Is Papa ever going to get here?” Alice glanced at her nine year old daughter, her only child. As she stood in front of the large wood stove and stirred the fragrant simmering stew, Alice replied “Of course. He’ll be here soon". Dipping a large wooden spoon into the cast iron pot, she brought it to her lips for a taste. “Just right” she mumbled to herself and smiled. It would be perfect to feed the large crowd on the cool weekend ahead. Frank would be arriving soon. Alice and Frances were spending the summer at the camp. Frank worked on their own cottage nearby, when he joined them every weekend. It was just a frame now, but with the help of his brothers he hoped to finish it this year. Allan would also be arriving with his friend Gordon Belot, recently engaged to Lena McGrath, their sister.

Ned and Minnie's cottage as seen from the river.

Friday’s heavy rains had dampened the enthusiasm, but just a little, as the McGrath boys made their way to their summer camp, only 13 miles from home. Unlike most weekends, the head of the family was not there. Ned and Minnie were in Montreal. 

Frank, along with his wife Alice and daughter Frances, were staying at Ned and Minnie’s cottage named Camp Fay. Younger brother Allan, his fiancee Hilda Little, older sister Lena and her fiance Gordon Belot were at the camp too. The whole family was looking forward to celebrating two weddings that fall. Allan and Lena’s weddings were just months away. No doubt that would dominate the conversation over dinner, as it often did that summer. Although it was late July, this was Allan’s first weekend there that year. He preferred to spend his free time in the city with Hilda but had missed the great family weekends. The McGraths had been spending summers at Long Island since the children were very young.

Frank and Allan’s older sister Aggie Sunderland and her children Gilbert and Rita were just a stone’s throw away in their cottage when Frank’s group arrived. Aggie’s husband Harry was not due to arrive until Sunday afternoon. Rita waved to her cousin Frances, from the large porch of her parents’ cottage. 

Taken a few years later, from the porch of Ned's cottage looking at Aggie's cottage. The grassy area is part of "the flats".

They had had little chance to play outside during the day because of the rain. Staying dry was better than getting soaked and catching cold, according to both of their mothers. They had all weekend to be together. Maybe Saturday would be sunny and dry. 

Some of the McGrath family at Camp Fay. On the left is Eddie McGrath. Frances (l) and Rita are in the centre of the pyramid. This photo was taken about 3 years after the story. All of those in the pictures were at the camp on July 24, 1927.

Across the flats, Bea and Billie and their six children were in their own cottage. It was Bea’s fondest wish that the sun would come out in the morning so her rambunctious group could get away from each other for a while. Being able to run around outside would burn off all the extra energy that had them almost bouncing off the walls. The same scene was being replayed in all of the cottages nearby. The men spent the work week in Ottawa working at their various jobs, returning on Friday evenings. The women and children spent the whole summer at the camp. Everyone hoped for good weather tomorrow after a day of pouring rain with the kids underfoot all the time. 

Alas, the rain was even heavier on Saturday and the children were stuck indoors again. Used to being outdoors with their cousins, they were growing bored. By Saturday night, with no chance of the regular bonfire, the mood of the notoriously boisterous group was subdued. It was another early night for the whole crowd, with the mothers especially praying for an end to the rain. 

Sunday July 24 dawned a little on the cool side but it wasn’t raining so the outdoors was a playground once again. Everyone agreed that a large bonfire would be the perfect ending to the weekend. Bonfires were a Saturday night ritual but it had been too wet last night. The mostly dry day on Sunday just increased the anticipation. But they needed more wood for the fire and to fuel the stoves, used not only for cooking but for keeping the cottages warm and cosy on the recent damp and chilly nights.

They needed enough dry kindling to get the fire started and even the little kids pitched in with that chore. Adults were left to find and retrieve large logs that would burn well when chopped into shorter lengths and split into smaller pieces for the stoves. Walking along the road leading to the camp, there was always a lot of brush and small branches to be collected. Dragging a large bushy branch down the road to the point, where the pyre would be built, was not considered a job, but more of a game. Not too far up the road where the brush was plentiful, was a large patch of wild raspberry canes and part of the ritual in late July included a little side trip to pick yourself a tasty snack. As the day was cool, the young collectors were wearing long sleeves and long pants so they were protected from the prickly berry bushes.

Allan (l) and Frank on the bank above the back channel.

Frank, Allan and Gordon volunteered to check out the banks along the back channel in search of firewood. This channel starts at the north end of the island and separates it from the Prescott Highway on the mainland. At the other end of the island, the channel connects to the Rideau River above the locks. From the dock, they could see the Long Island Locks and the dam a few hundred yards away. There was no wood to be found on that side of the island. Between the channel and the river dammed above the locks, is a descent of about 15 feet. The resulting waterfall was called the Bywash by the locals.

View from above Nicholl's Island. The Long Island Locks are on the left and the dam is easily see. This was before the road was completed across the dam. In the upper right you see the split of the water and you can just discern the wooden bridge which crosses the Bywash. 

Because of the recent rain, the river was unusually high above the dam beside the locks. Rather than risk an overflow which would have covered the road and blocked access to the cottages, the sluice gates on the Bywash were opened by removing a couple of the huge squared timbers. The waterfall looked quite splendid but it did cause the slight eddy below the falls to become a raging dangerous whirlpool. This was a regular occurrence but only the lockmaster paid a lot of attention. He did his job controlling the flow so well that nobody worried about flooding in the summer. Children knew, on pain of severe punishment, to stay clear of this place. The sure-footed among them would sometimes climb down from the bridge among the large rocks, but everyone had a healthy respect for the water.

The Bywash from the Long Island side. You don't see the stacked logs which have been removed to allow full flow of water as it would have been on July 24, 1927.

The three men set out about 11 o’clock in the flat-bottomed rowboat, to collect whatever logs they could find. Some would be used for the bonfire and the rest would be stored for use in the wood stoves. The channel is fairly narrow and not very deep. There were rocks along the shoreline which was overgrown with trees. The three men were spotted shortly afterwards hauling the boat back into the water after loading some logs. Later they were seen again, closer to the Bywash, piling wood into the rowboat which had been drawn up on the shore. The oars had been removed from the oar locks to make more room for the logs. This is the last time the men were seen alive.

About three p.m., several people noticed a rowboat overturned on the rocks near the eddy. One of them was Lena, but as it was not uncommon for a rowboat to break loose and float off, they thought nothing of it. They were not close enough to recognize the small craft and almost everyone owned a similar boat. At that point the men were very late for dinner but nobody was especially concerned.

By five p.m. there was general anxiety as the men had been expected hours earlier. Without a word to anyone, a worried Aggie set out to walk along the back channel in search of the men. When she spotted the overturned boat, she recognized it immediately and gasped as she knew what that meant. When she regained her breath she was able to walk to the closest cottage where she was given a glass of water. When she had recovered enough, she recounted her discovery and was able to summon help. The lockmaster’s daughter heard the call and ran for her father. He immediately put in stop-logs to lessen the flow of water and calm the whirlpool. Within a short time the family had begun to gather near the Bywash  and there was no doubt in any mind what the outcome would be. The women in the family were persuaded to return to their cottages but the men remained for the recovery operation.

Men from the family camps tried to fashion hooks to search the water for the bodies but were unsuccessful. Police were summoned from Ottawa to drag the channel with grappling hooks. Allan’s body was the first to be recovered around 7:30 p.m. Gordon Belot’s was found about 30 minutes later. After another 20 minutes, they recovered the body of Frank. All three were removed from the water and laid out on the shore. The land was quite steep and as the water began to rise again, the bodies had to be moved up the incline. It took quite an effort but they were all moved to the top of the bank.  A doctor was called from Manotick a few miles away and he pronounced the men dead. McEvoy Brothers funeral home removed the bodies to the city.

Exactly who had the terrible task of notifying Ned and Minnie, is unclear. The Ottawa Citizen reported that their elder brother Eddie telephoned the news and the Ottawa Journal claimed that the sad duty fell to Ernest McGrath, a cousin. Ned and  Minnie returned to Ottawa on a late train from Montreal and were met at the station by family members. They managed to contain their grief and a newspaper report stated that they seemed to be bearing up well. They were absolutely crushed at the loss of their two youngest sons.

There was also a conflict in reporting the swimming skills of all three men. The Ottawa Journal said that Allan was a strong swimmer but Frank was not. The Citizen, on the other hand, described their father pointing to a “handsome mirror on the wall of the living room” as a swimming prize that Frank had recently won. But no matter the level of their swimming skills, they would never have overcome the pull of the turbulent dangerous eddy. Once caught in the vortex there was no escape. Exactly why they were so close when they were well aware of the danger is not known. Speculation was rife and to this day there are likely still several family theories. No eye witnesses saw the tragedy unfold.

The grief was palpable in every household. No words could express its depth. Disbelief slowly changed to horror and then reality hit with terrible force. The whole party became silent as they packed up and returned to the city. Every cottage was dark that night. Alice McGrath, Frank’s widow, was completely overcome and under a doctor’s care. Her reaction was so severe that many feared for her health. Little Frances was consoled by Aggie’s family. The day of the funeral, Tuesday July 26, Alice collapsed again as the two hearses set out from the family home for the slow drive to St Patrick’s Church. The twin hearses drove side by side, followed on foot by Ned and his remaining son Eddie for the most difficult walk of their lives. The crowd that walked behind the grief stricken family was huge. They filled the church to beyond its normal capacity. Following the service, the procession drove to Notre Dame cemetery where Frank and Allan McGrath were laid to rest in the family plot, beside their grandparents.

The terrible day continued in the afternoon with the funeral of Gordon Belot. Imagine having just buried your two younger brothers and then having to go to the funeral of your fiance. Lena remained strong, possibly still in shock, and managed to get through the day with the support of her family. All of the McGraths attended Gordon’s funeral and burial. There’s no comprehending that much sorrow. 

That evening the family, completely exhausted, were all together, back at home on Lebreton Street. They had each other for support and were relieved to finally be alone, when there was a knock on the door. Exhausted beyond words, it was only with great effort that someone went to see who it was. To their great astonishment it was the Prime Minister, William Lyon Mackenzie King. He had come to offer his condolences in person.

Ned had been a well known Liberal for his entire adult life. He was a past president of the Ottawa Reform Association and remained an active member of the group which promoted the Liberal platform and ideals at every opportunity. He had represented the group seven years earlier when he made an address on their behalf, to the Prime Minister, recently returned from a trip across the country. Ned must have made a very strong positive impression on the Prime Minister. Still he was very surprised when Mr King showed up at the family home. They were very impressed and very appreciative of this gesture. 

Article from the Ottawa Citizen, July 27, 1927.

Ned and Minnie coped with their loss stoically for a few years, but the drowning of their sons took a heavy toll on the health of both. Minnie’s diabetes worsened with the stress and she eventually lost a leg to gangrene. She died of a sudden heart attack, at the cottage, one week short of four years later. Again Ned was not there at the time. The loss of his devoted wife claimed more of his strong spirit. He tried very hard to carry on and devoted himself to his family and his constituents, after being elected in 1931 as alderman in Dalhousie Ward. He had served in that position from 1907 to 1914 and felt that it might be his lifeline to serve again. Ned himself lived only 17 months after Minnie died. He fell ill on December 5, the very day that he was re-elected. Although he rallied briefly, he eventually passed away from pneumonia on December 29, 1932. His funeral was one of the largest ever seen in Ottawa up to that time.