Catching up
Some general musings to start with.
Sheep - whose numbers are about three times larger than the human population of Iceland. They can be seen pretty much everywhere but rarely seem to stay in large groups. It’s most common, in my limited sheep-seeking experience, to see more than a few at a time. They come in a few colours. Of course, they are predominantly white, but we’ve also seen a good share of black sheep, some brown, grey and some even a kind of motley combination of the above colours.
Their wool is not so much curly and long and shaggy. All appear to be suitably fat but perhaps under that long coat, they could be quite svelte. Lamb is the most common meat and features in many meals. We’ve enjoyed lamb soup a few times and to my palate there must be only once recipe. And it always turns out well. It’s not highly seasoned but suits my taste buds.
The wool can be quite soft or sometimes ‘stiffer’. Alas, I still cannot tolerate wearing wool unless it’s lined with something. Usually that is the sort of fleece used in jackets or hoodies. I may buy a skein or two before heading home and will then figure out what to knit. Backwards? Yes, but I’ve never claimed to do anything the usual way.
Horses - Icelandic horses are a pure breed now. They are all descended from a few different breeds brought here generations ago. They are very sturdy, with longish manes, and strong legs that are somewhat shorter than horses in North America. To insure that the breed remains pure, if an Icelandic horse leaves the island it cannot return. Racing is popular. I understand that galloping down mountainsides is also a “thing”. So sure-footed are these animals that the rider can go almost anywhere - up or down - safely.
A unique feature of Icelandic horses is their 5th gait. They learn it from each other I believe. It’s quite remarkable to see someone astride one and not bounce up and down. The ride is quite smooth I’m told. I saw a rider galloping? down a lane and she/he seemed to barely move in the saddle. The ship offered an excursion on horseback but it’s not for me. I wanted to be able to walk the next day.
Puffins are constantly in the conversation but they have left for warmer climes - about a week before our cruise began. There may be a few in a rescue sanctuary but the wild ones have left. You can see tons of pictures and souvenirs with their image.
A short while ago off the side of the ship along the southern coast, we could see the “blows” from several whales. But there was no breaching. They were merely teasing us. A few morning whaling excursions from Husavik saw nothing but a few sea birds and maybe one porpoise. The afternoon sailing did see a couple. We spotted some blows in a fjord en route to Dynjandi waterfall but again - they must be saving their strength for breaching when we’re out of site. Or perhaps they were just shy. Once again we are on the cusp of their departure for their southern breeding ground so not many remain.
We’ve encountered a few occasions of rough seas. Two nights the swells were about 1.5 to 2 metres. It got somewhat more exciting last night as the waves increased to 3 metres. Moving about the ship was an excursion in itself. We could all have earned the nickname “Lurch”. I chewed a couple of ginger tablets just in case, but motion sickness is not something that I’ve ever experienced.
Because of the turbulent conditions we are very late getting to our last port in the Westman Islands, on the southwest coast. For a while after sunrise we could see the beautiful cliffs along the southern coast. However, they were just distant enough that photos would have been disappointing. It was nice to simply enjoy the view and tuck it into the memory bank. There were glimpses of sun. We’ve been told that it is likely not to rain on Heimsay where we will dock around noon.
The population of Iceland is 350,000. About two thirds of the people live in Reykjavik, about 18,000 in Akureyri and several hundred in various communities, with yet others being even smaller.
Icelanders love their coffee and they like it strong. YAY! Susan has had some difficulty finding decaf, but on the s although it is instant.
Lunch will be our next activity. Seems like eating is our constant activity, even though we have excursions and walks most days. Each community visited is just a little different from the others.
The staff on board is terrific. They give talks, lead excursions, and last night they entertained us at a “Crew Show”. Not all exhibited their talents but there were singers and dancers - from Germany, Iceland, he Philippines, Mauritius and South Africa. At the time of the performances, the ship was encountering the high seas so extra kudos for maintaining their balance.
We were served a “chocolate surprise” which I figured would be some kind of cake. Well - let me tell you it was THE most extraordinary “death by chocolate” buffet that I’ve ever enjoyed. Sacher torte, Black Forest cake, profiteroles, macaroons, meringues, After Eight cake, and many others. I didn’t try them all of course. The pastry chef on board was responsible for all of it. Yummy to the max.
Our stay in the Westman Islands will be short due to the late arrival and we will just do a walkabout in the town. I will catch up on the missed ports later.
Just back from a walk in town. This town was devasted by a volcanic eruption in 1973. By a fortunate spell of bad weather the fishing boats from here were all in the harbour and the airport was open. Despite the devastating eruption, all of the inhabitants but one were evacuated on the fishing boats. Some older or ill people were flown out. The only casualty was a man who had succumbed to the gases and smoke.
The town has built a volcano museum, the main feature of which is the entire house of one family. It remained buried for 40 years and when it was dug out, many items were identified. Nothing was salvageable. It was left as is and the museum was built over and around it. Fascinating. The story is recounted by an audioguide as you move around.
It was sunny as we left the ship and walked into town in search of the museum. Then it rained and we got soaked en route. When we emerged, it was sunny once again.
Now we are aboard for the final evening. Tomorrow we disembark after breakfast. There are a few hours to spend in Reykjavik before heading to the airport. The ship has made the arrangements for storing our luggage and we can get the airport transfer at the dock. It's a 5 minute walk into the centre of town.
So - this is the last entry for a while. Should the packing go very smoothly (I haven't bought much so space is not an issue) I will try to add photos to the recent posts.
Thank you for following this journey. It has been amazing. Iceland is a wonderland. We of course have a rosy view of their weather as it was not at all typical - which is cloudy and wet. We've had little rain in the grand scheme of things. Tomorrow we wish for fair winds and smooth flight. Adieu.