They say it's a long way to Tipperary and today it was.
After a leisurely start with the extra hour gained by turning the clocks back, we headed for Cahir, via Borris, and Graiguenamanagh, and St Mullin's (from afar) and New Ross (which we didn't mean to visit but the GPS got weary and well, it's a pretty nice spot in any case).
Getting to Borris was easy and as it was a bright sunny day, the views of the viaduct didn't disappoint. We didn't take the walking path that would have led us across the top along the entire viaduct.
Just about a kilometre away is Borris House, but the grounds were not open today. The town has done a wonderful job placing flowering baskets all along the wall that surrounds the lovely property. But I was disappointed at being kept out.
From there we ended up on a scenic drive - or so said the signs. Of course we have yet to take a drive that isn't scenic unless you count the time we spent driving at night, not seeing anything beyond the road ahead, and of course the directional signs.
Rather than take a motorway, we'd thought that following smaller roads would be more to our liking. After leaving Borris the Autoadress app decided that it couldn't find an internet signal. Everything else on the phone was finding it perfectly well. So - out game the old Garmin and on we went.
Although not on our chosen route, we did get to New Ross where I could practically give the tour of the Dunbrody replica famine ship. Instead we opted for lunch at the Kennedy Hotel Carvery. We both chose the roast lamb but I declined to include the mashed potatoes (I did take the boiled ones) and the turnips (which I decline when possible).
From there it was on to Cahir - via a bypass near Waterford, on through Clonmel, which was much larger than I'd pictured. We did pass the Magner's cider factory where we'd never seen so many silos, full of the very tasty brew - and no tap in sight.
From there we drove through Carrick-on-Suir which was also lovely and quite a large town. It will be a destination for another day when time is available to merely wander in the area.
Eventually we came to Cahir and as soon as the sign to Swiss Cottage came into view we headed in that direction. There were a few cars in the parking lot but certainly no crowds. Our choices on this long weekend managed to take us to wonderful treasures that were seemingly being ignored by others. We made good choices for sure.
The path to the cottage led down a flight of stone steps and across an ironwork bridge, on whose end posts were sculpted vultures painted white. The bridge crossed the Suir and there were signs indicating this was a good fishing location.
There was another sign pointing up yet another set of stone stairs and we found ourselves in what turned out to be the basement of Swiss Cottage. That part of the house had once been the kitchen and wine cellar - and no, there was no wine to be found. After purchasing admission for the house tour we once again climbed a set of stone stairs which turned out to be the servants' entrance to the cottage. Photos are not allowed in any of the four rooms of the cottage.
At the top of the stairs was the entrance to the cottage which still has the original wood floor, laid out in a spider web pattern. The cottage was occupied, and maintained, at least part time, up to 1980. Then it was abandoned by the owner for five years during which time it suffered considerable damage.
The "music room" was actually used, without permission, by a local farmer to stable his two horses for a few years. Vandals did considerable damage to the windows in the other reception room. Despite all of that, some of the original wallpaper in the one room on the main floor, survived. They were able to replicate the exact paper through a company in Texas. The scenes on the wallpaper included views from Istanbul - quite popular at the time. There was a mix of classical and country in the etched and stained glass windows.
None of the furniture is original but is either a replica or came from elsewhere. The most amazing pieces are six matching chairs, elaborately carved to resemble intertwining branches, each carved out of a solid block of Beech. There are no joins at all, other than that padded seats were added. The work to make the 6 chairs took 2 workmen 2 years. Although fanciful, the chairs looked distinctly uncomfortable - although perhaps good for scratching your back.
A spiral staircase leads upstairs to the two bedrooms, each of which is covered in wallpaper, one a bold toile and the other somewhat more subdued in a diamond pattern of vines. The fabric matched the wallpaper, which even covered the oddly shaped and unmatched dormers around each window. No two windows are the same size or shape, nor are they symmetrical within themselves. Even the doors are oddly angled. This was absolutely by design.
Apparently from the balcony off one of the bedrooms the Butlers, also known as Lord Caher and family, could see all the way to Cahir castle which they also owned. However there were 32 peasants cottages in the way of their view so they had them moved. I guess if you are that wealthy you can do pretty much whatever you like. Yikes!
The family would arrive by carriage from their home, which was a manor house near the castle. They'd spend the day entertaining friends with parties or fishing, then be returned to the manor house afterwards. I have no idea if the servants were brought by carriage or made to walk from the town.
It is a gorgeous setting and by far the most enchanted-looking building I've ever toured. It is certainly unique in Ireland and probably in the world. Swiss Cottage is now owned and maintained by the Office of Public Works.
Eventually we made our way back to Cahir where we took the odd photo of the castle and the river, which was perfectly still above a sort of tiny waterfall, and provided mirror-like images of the foliage and a nearby church. Gorgeous.
We were so exhausted by all the scenic views we had to stop in a little cafe for cappuccino or tea and cake. Suitably refreshed we noticed the nearby shop was open and of course we made a small contribution to the local economy.
The drive back to Bunclody was facilitated by the Garmin once more. My phone had pretty much run out of juice by that time. Since it got dark shortly after we left Cahir, we allowed the GPS to tell us the route and of course it chose the main motorway. When you come to the end of a perfect day, it's with gratitude that you simply follow directions.
What I have not figured out is why Lord Caher spelled his name that way, and his castle and the town were/are spelled Cahir. If you figure it out please pass along the info.
Paddy is already tucked into bed and I'm headed to my own shortly, with my book. We are not going to be so ambitious with our travels on the morrow and shall possibly enjoy multiple cups of coffee and tea before making any moves towards the great outdoors.
Apparently the sun is getting fatigued from being out all day every day, and is staying behind the clouds tomorrow. We can hardly complain as it has not rained in two weeks.
I will post some pictures in the morning.
Slan
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