Do you know the song "A little bit of heaven fell from out the sky one day?" Well, that almost seemed to be the case today.
As we left the cottage on the road to Shillelagh, the view was a little bit different. It was clear enough, not quite sunny, but as we drove along and looked at the view, the clouds had settled very low in the vallley with the hills visible above them. It was quite lovely, and the kids took some pictures as I stayed in the car pulled as far off the road to the left as I possibly could get it.
That was just a taste of what was to come en route. Our destination was Limerick, literally across the country. The roads were good, no more washouts, and for the most part we were on major roads. But as we drove west we hit some patches of severe fog, making it feel like the clouds had dropped down on us. And then over the next hill, the skies would clear, and the low clouds hung over the lowlands and the hills were visible above. Heavenly.
While the drive to Limerick was pretty straightforward, it was nearly three hours of driving before we arrived. Limerick is a very old city. It was never designed for cars. It's bad enough driving on the left, shifting gears when I'm accustomed to automatic transmission, and using good roads. At almost every new street we had to make a turn. It often looked like the car would have to be an accordion, shrinking between cars parked on both sides of a two-way street, and the lane only wide enough for one vehicle. I was a very shifty character until we came to the castle.
We looked for the pay and display machine but after reading the sign – very high up on a post – it seemed we were in an e-parking zone. What is that? Well, to pay, you have to call the number on the post. So I did. Not helpful the first time. I was not fast enough entering the license plate. Second time was a winner – or at least I think so. No charges were shown on the post. I suppose it will be billed to Hertz from whom I rented the car. Just another little kink in proceedings. I'm sure it's not as expensive as parking at home but I will find out when I return the vehicle.
King John's Castle has a long and of course violent history. The story was told very well in the museum you pass through before seeing the castle itself. I remember almost nothing of what the signs said. I do remember that I'm grateful for not having lived through any of those awful times. In one passage they posted signs of how waste was disposed of and how awful the smells were. I momentarily feared that they had somehow conjured up a way to let us have that experience. Whew. They didn't.
It became quite cloudy as we moved out past the more-or-less underground bits showing the original walls and tunnels (dug by hand with enemies approaching each other underground). This is the reason behind the term "undermining." Who knew? Well, if you did, please don't make me feel stupid, because I didn't.
I opted to do a taste test of the capuccino in the cafe while Braden and Sammie climbed the walls. Well, not the walls, but nasty winding stone staircases inside the parts of the castle open to exploration. The capuccino passed the test and I'll be happy just to see their photos.
We had a late lunch at Katie Daly's pub across the street. It apparently dates to 1798 and Katie Daly was born in California, daughter of a man born in Roscrea, just down the road. She never came to Ireland as far as I could see, and ended up dying in Alcatraz. The family business was moonshine and things didn't quite work out the way she'd planned. Anyway, the seafood chowder was wonderful along with the every-present slice of brown bread. But why is the pub named after an American criminal?
Off we went to see the Rock of Cashel. No problems en route. I decided to stay in the car for a nap while the kids set off up the hill. They arrived 2 minutes too late to be admitted. Last time I was there we were 5 minutes too late to get in. Today the last entry was 3:45 and last year it was 5 pm. Different month, different closing time I guess. Anyway, they were not amused.
And then the driving fun began. We decided to take a detour to Clonegal, very near our cottage. But our navigational aid (turns out NOT to be Ms Google), was seeking revenge. Either that or she was confused or just messing with us. As we drove towards what I knew was the road to Clonegal, we got a directive to take an "L" road. Hmmm. OK - worth a shot? Turns out the answer is "Nope."
We arrived on the backest of back roads and were told "park the car and walk from here" in a slightly different version of that statement. Park? Walk? We are NOT in Clonegal. It's a town with streets, and businesses and houses. This was not that at all. So, I backed up into a lane and turned around. We reset the app to "Clonegal old RC graveyard" instead of "Clonegal" and were guided back on the path from whence we'd recently arrived.
After a brief stop in Clonegal, the real one, for historical verification, by the Derry river, near the narrow stone bridge, it was time to head back home. That part was a piece of cake.
BUT - Braden has developed what we hope is just a head cold. Mary Byrne gave us a recommendation for a cold remedy "Lemsip" which has been purchased and consumed. In the morning, we will use the other thing Mary provided: a Covid test. At present all of our fingers and toes are crossed that only one line appears when Braden does the test tomorrow.
Plans are on hold until we know how he feels and what the situation is. Update when available. Meanwhile, enjoy a few pictures from yesterday and today.
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Entrance to Johnstown Castle - note the Hallowe'en decorations |
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View from inside the castle - just before the rain started |
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Tower at Ferrycarrig bridge |
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Amazing clouds over the Irish Sea at Courtown, Wexford |
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King John's Castle, Limerick on the Shannon River |
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Low clouds over Shillelagh |